Imbibe is a new semi-regular column that highlights wine, beer, hooch, booze, firewater, or any other kind of potent potables available around town that we think you should drink.

Once again, spring is upon us. With a new season, it only seems appropriate that we introduce a new column (and just maybe a pretext for me to get some free wine). So to kick it off, I can't think of anything more seasonally appropriate than some wines from Kiwi Country. They've been growing grapes on this archipelago since its 'discovery' by England, but it wasn't really until the mid '80s that the Kiwis really hit their stride. They've built a solid reputation on cool climate reds like Pinot Noir, but ultimately, it's the white varieties that have put them on the map. Rolling topography, igneous soils, cool winds, and long, sunny summers all converge to help produce crisp, radiant, and refreshing wines that are geared for patio springtime patio sipping. Here are three prime examples.

Pinot Gris

This grape gets a lot more attention throughout the world with its Italian version, Pinot Grigio, which is a shame. Most of what Italy exports of this wine is thin, lifeless, and best served at near sub-zero temperatures. My guess is that they keep all of the good stuff for themselves. Whatever the case may be, it’s an unfortunate misrepresentation of this grape’s potential. This wine is a far better example. There is a lot going on in this bottle. On the nose, it’s like three or four desserts being prepared in the kitchen all at once. Imagine in your mind’s nose the scent of an apple pie and a pineapple upside down cake baking – all of those natural sugars caramelizing to a golden brown, spices like ginger or cinnamon. Meanwhile, somebody else is slicing into a ripe honeydew melon. Then far off in the background, out the window you smell wet stones from the creek out back. On the palate, it’s rich, weighty and full-bodied without being thick and cloying. Then, a clean, crisp finish.

Chardonnay

Michael Seresin first made his name as the director of photography on Alan Parker movies like Midnight Express and Angel Heart. These days when he's not behind the camera, he's out in Marlborough New Zealand growing grapes. He grows all the standards like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and they're all great. But his sleeper hit is his Estate Chardonnay. Seresin's winemaker, Clive Dougall, takes a laissez faire approach in the vineyard. Nature's already done half the work by carrying native yeasts on the wind and resting them on the grape skins. So after the fruit is crushed, the juice ferments itself. These wild yeast strain give each vintage a slightly exotic and unpredictable character. A secondary round of fermentation brings out lactic acids in the juice, which imparts a toasty, buttery character to the wine which perfectly complements the pronounced citrus notes. Toast and marmalade, anyone?

Sauvignon Blanc

Black Cottage is Two Rivers’ second label, an attempt to break into the market at a slightly lower price point. The “official” tasting notes of this wine say things like “ripe tropical fruit flavors” or “aromas of lychee and gooseberries with a hint of leafy complexity.” Sure, that stuff is certainly there. Those are all standard descriptors for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Here is another one: “cat piss.” That’s right, cat piss. It’s a term winemakers and other industry insiders will often bat about like a toy mouse when drinking this kind of wine and it’s by no means intended as an insult. I know, the last thing you want to think about when when sticking your beak in a glass of wine is having to clean Mrs. Tinkerbell’s litter box, but bear with me here. Once you wrap your brain around it, it becomes strangely appealing quality in wines like this -- sharp and distinctively astringent. It’s a quality you come to appreciate the same way you do truffles. Remember the first time you smelled one of those? You probably thought “used gym socks” (I know I did). You kept an open mind, though, and eventually that primal, earthy aroma became irresistible. Keep that in mind and you’ll come to love this wine.

Two Rivers Pinot Gris and Black Cottage Sauvignon Blanc are available for purchase at Open Wine's show room. Click here for a listing. You can purchase Seresin online from the The Wine Republic.

No comments yet

All Nightlife Articles » All Articles »

All Dining Articles » All Articles »

All Art & Stage Articles » All Articles »

All Activities Articles » All Articles »