The Review is exactly that, a review, a thorough and critical look at newly-opened eateries, your guide to what's hot and what's not around Shanghai. To see our review guidelines, click here.

I ignore a fair share of restaurants in Shanghai. It’s not out of negligence; it’s out of pragmatism. There are only three meals in a day. Generally, only two of them are applicable to my line of work and if I'm going to consume all of these excess calories, they should at least count for something. So, sometimes, I’m forced to judge a book by its cover. Such was the case with Piro. I’d figured that the initial user reviews would have only confirmed my suspicions. But in the past few weeks it looks like this place has developed something of a following. I would often pass by on Changshu Lu and see a packed patio. Maybe, I thought, I’d written this place off too soon. Well, after several visits, I return, belly full, shoulders shrugged, and uttering a resounding "Meh...” This place’s aim is to be your quintessential everyday average American restaurant. And I can confirm that they have succeeded, especially with the “average” part.

The menu features a fairly standard selection of casual American fare more or less divided into three categories: you’ve got your all-day breakfasts, your quesadillas, and, of course, your sandwiches. Let’s start with breakfast. The pancakes are going to be your best bet. They do a fair job with them – golden brown, nice fluffy texture. Points in their favor: they top them with real whip cream. Points against them: they use fake maple syrup. I won’t begrudge them that too much, though. That stuff’s expensive. Frittatas are the other major option and they don't fare quite as well. First off, never under any circumstances ever name anything on your menu “The Meat Lover’s Wet Dream.” Come on, Piro. I’m about to eat, I really don’t want my food associated with any kind of bodily emissions, nocturnal or otherwise. Crass names aside, their frittatas could be fluffed up a little with the addition of a little milk before they pour them on the skillet. And for God’s sake, have some self respect and don’t use processed cheese.

They offer a wide variety of quesadillas with fillings ranging from apples to shrimp. I had the latter. Nothing to write home about, just a tortilla with chunks of vegetables and cheese inside. Curiously, the shrimp was served on the side, which seems to defeat the purpose of ordering a shrimp quesadilla.



Sandwiches are the real meat of the menu with everything from uninspired, albeit adequate, offerings like chicken with avocado or the BLT to the Fat Bitch. This is that requisite obnoxiously excessive menu item you find in restaurants of this ilk. It’s a sandwich wrap that integrates the Philly cheese steak, with a chicken breast, some bacon, fried mozzarella sticks, French fries, mashed avocado, and even more cheese. Supposedly it's about the size of a junior league American football. I didn’t try this. I don't see any benefit from eating something like this unless, of course my reward for completion were to be immortalized on brass a placard hung somewhere on the wall. A note to the proprietors: introducing such an incentive program might increase the odds of getting more editorial coverage on our website. Click here to see what I mean.

If there is any reason to eat here, though, it's the burgers. They actually are pretty good. They’re made from imported Aussie beef, which they grind in house and pack into patties just shy of half a pound. They’re monstrous and messy like a burger should be. But even then, they fall just a little short of the mark. Again, my beef is mainly with the processed singles that they pass off as cheese. That’s a minor league move. Just bite the bullet and spring for some real cheddar already. They skimp a little on the fries, too. If we’re paying upwards of 50 or 60 kuai for a burger, please heap some more fried carbs upon us.

For all its faults, however, it is worth noting that Piro is a freshman effort. This is a tough business to learn by doing. And it is readily apparent that they are doing just that. That they’ve made it this far along has to count for something. They seem to have the enthusiasm, their servers are friendly and attentive (though clearly inexperienced). That’s definitely a start. Nevertheless, they’re desperately in need of some kind of a wow factor in the kitchen. I hereby challenge them. Give me a reason to come back.



Piro, 91 Changshu Lu, near Changle Lu; Full listing here.

All Nightlife Articles » All Articles »

All Dining Articles » All Articles »

All Art & Stage Articles » All Articles »

All Activities Articles » All Articles »