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Sushi, Inc.

Haiku by Hatsune's Pudong satellite - By Billy, Jul 03, 08

Some PR folks from Sushi, Inc. contacted SmartShanghai to get this new venture from Haiku by Hatsune on our radar. Raised on sushi myself (childhood consisted of nary a home-cooked roast for yours truly) I felt it my duty and purpose to visit the other side of the pond and mix it up in the Lujiazui business district with some raw fish.

Ambiance: Citigroup Tower, Floor 2. Personally, I prefer not to dine in any structure dubbed "Tower" unless it was thus dubbed by Ludwig the Mad King of Bavaria. Tower eateries generate an airport ambiance, and I find myself continually checking for my passport. In the case of Sushi Inc., the outdoor patio where I hunkered down was actually an indoor balcony overlooking the building's sleek lobby. I sat with my back facing the lobby for a view of a trickling wall of water: rather soothing. In fact, the entire dining experience resonated with an aura unusual this side of the Huangpu: quiet.

I started off with the Hiyayakku Tofu. Presentation made a good impression; a delicate slab of creamy white tofu doused in dark green seaweed and light green scallions was as pleasing to the eye as to the palate. Next to arrive was the Wasabi Challenge, eight cut rolls of tuna and cucumber slathered in the Rising Sun's version of Tabasco. The rolls appeared on a two-foot slab of a plate, garnished with fish eggs as well as some unidentifiables, generating a murmur or two from fellow diners. I found the dish unexpectedly exigent – certainly I've tasted hotter and more refined wasabi. Nevertheless, the Challenge left me with tears in my eyes.

For my main course I ordered the Chirashi Sushi. Traditionally, Chirashi is an assortment of sashimi (raw fish), arranged with color in mind and carefully laid on a bed of rice. I specifically chose this dish because I had been disappointed by Haiku's rendition and was wondering if Sushi, Inc. had developed any innovations. Alas, the Chirashi was identical to Haiku's, replete with scrambled egg studded rice. Seeing as I'd consumed this very meal before, the dish smarted with the ironic double whammy of being both bizarre and predictable.

I selected green tea ice cream for dessert, a staple of any Japanese joint. Meiyou. Moving on to vanilla bean. It tasted suspiciously like Haagen Dazs.

For my beverage, I enjoyed a Perrier, neat.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Sushi Inc, per se. Service was swift and kind and the sushi is fine. Despite the PR efforts to market Sushi, Inc. as an entity distinguishable from Haiku, the menu is essentially identical. I can recommend a lunch here should you work in the area. Given the location, expect to be surrounded by suits discussing stocks, the least expensive business class ticket to Shanghai (US$ 5,000), and a bear market...or was it bull...definitely bull.

Dinner for one with a drink: 200rmb

Main photo: Tony Cenicola, New York Times

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