Maya
By Hien Huynh, Oct 9th, 2008 | In Dining
The aren't too many Mexican restaurants in Shanghai, and the ones that are here seem to inspire ardently mixed reviews, especially when the authenticity of said restaurants is examined. Despite the simplicity and modesty of traditional Mexican food, it seems it's also the hardest to do right. No other cuisine inspires such scrutiny and no other restaurants inspire such derision as does Mexican.
And so it is with keen interest that we cast our gaze on Maya, the new Mexican restaurant from Brad Turley -- he of Maneo, 239, and Three on the Bund distinction. Turley boasts lifelong experience with Mexican food, and we were eagerly anticipating the presentation of this controversial cuisine from such a respected chef. The press material states that Maya's offerings are "a collection of childhood memories, comfort foods, modernization of classical dishes," and also reflect their chef's Californian and Japanese influences. Expect Mexican traditional and favorites, but also trendy, modern variations of these.
We were lucky enough to try just about every dish on the menu thanks largely to the large group we were with. Right off the bat, let's just say that the tacos were a hit with everyone: we ordered a combo of tacos which consisted of Lime Beef, (25rmb) Cilantro Chicken (23rmb) and Mushroom and Onion (20rmb). The selection of Ceviche was also a success, and again we tried almost all the variations on offer.
My favorite, though, would have to be the Tuna Soy Xiao Tsing wine and Sesame leaves (95rmb) -- now there's an example of the creative fusion cooking.
Next was a selection of appetizers, including Avocado Salsa (70rmb), Mini Wontons Taco (42rmb), Chile Relleno with pomegranate and goat cheese (48rmb). With so much food flying around, we opted for just one main: the Churrasco Estilo Argentino or Blackened Beef, chili and roasted potato (180rmb). Now, 180rmb for a main is a little expensive for my tastes, but I¡¯d have to argue that this time it was worth it -- rich, melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness.
The food itself is some of the best Mexican I have had ever. Granted, I have little knowledge of Mexican cuisine, but I would nonetheless assert that Maya will satisfy the discerning Mexican gourmand -- it offers the traditional dishes you've been craving, but also incorporates modern twists and surprises with them as well to keep it exciting.
As a final note, Maya is one of the few non-Smoking restaurants in the area, although they've got a lounge where people can sneak off to for a puff.
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