SmartShanghai | Kuluska

Kuluska

By Michael O., Jan 14th, 2009 | In Dining

There's a word-of-mouth buzz growing about a small new development on Kangding Lu near Xikang Lu. Out front is the Exit Bar, which serves a selection of continental breakfasts and comfort food, but with a focus on friendly but rowdy Euro drinking sessions into the night. In the back is Kaiba, a Belgian beer lover's dream come true. Kaiba is to beer what Constellation is to cocktails -- stripped down, classy, sincere, but warm and unpretentious. If your date likes beer, that's where you go. The development includes a gallery, boxing gym, a few creative offices, and Cuvee wine bar (ex-Senses management). But the destination spot for us is a new Basque restaurant called Kuluska. We're pretty excited about the place, to the point where we almost don't want to share it with you, but our innate kindness overwhelmed our selfishness.

You'll want to start your meal here by visiting the selection of about 20 "pintxos" (Basque tapas) laid out as finger food at the back. These are mostly 15rmb each, with a few that run only 10rmb each. You'll need to down about 10 to 15 of these to make a meal. We tried the lot and most of them were quite good. Tortillas (Spanish style, like an egg omelet with potatoes) with tuna, or with layers of vegetables and tomatoes were both tasty, and probably the most filling of the pintxos. Most of the pintxos are slices of bread covered with quail eggs, shrimp, salmon, mackerel, mushrooms, pork cutlet or hard-boiled eggs. These are a fine start, but save some room to explore the proper menu.

There's paella (listed at 148rmb on the menu -- for 2 people, it's 75rmb for a one person serving) in a number of varieties. Seafood paella wasn't available on a few recent visits, and the staff explained that they would not make it without good ingredients. That's integrity we applaud. The black squid ink paella made a nice alternative, the texture of the rice, like risotto, was perfect.

Then there's a packed menu of salads, starters, tapas, and casuelettes to choose from, most of them between 30 and 40rmb. Our favorite is the monkfish with wild mushrooms -- the aroma hit us as it arrived and in the end we were fighting over the last bits of mushroom and oil, so rich in flavor. A spinach pie was another hit -- we expected soggy spinach but got delicately cooked greens with good chew. Potatoes bravas is one dish we always order at tapas places, to see if they can get this standard done right, and Kuluska does. A slight mix of spicy and sweet, with potatoes that are only lightly crispy on the outside. An order of chicken leg in black beer sauce was also good -- the sauce was excellent, the chicken, moist and on the bone, but just a little bit bland.

The dessert menu doesn't exist yet. There are a few options if you ask, and chocolate is not one of them, yet. We went with the recommended Basque pie -- like a compressed cheesecake with walnuts -- served with a shot of Basque liquor made with fennel, blueberry, and touch of coffee. Sweet like ouzo, but more complex, and with no cloying aftertaste.

House wines by the glass are 20rmb, except on Wednesdays, they're all 15rmb. They're fine choices for the price, which means you're going to order more pintxos.

Kuluska calls itself a "Basque tavern" as it's more casual and comfortable than a formal restaurant, yet more civilized than a mere bar. You can come in for a glass of wine and a snack, or stuff yourself silly with all sorts of menu choices. We've tried the "just a nibble" approach, but it's too good to walk out without being stuffed.

Oh, extra points for a good Ipod music selection!