Interview: Cairn Wu of Kaileeni

An afternoon at the Kaileeni studio... - By Janice Bae, Apr 14, 09

Cairn Wu, founder of fashion label Kaileeni, recently launched her Spring 2009 collection. The series highlights her trademark sense of understated elegance and silhouette-flattering simplicity, and shows why this Shanghai start-up has rapidly come in vogue with shoppers in Shanghai. SmSh sat down with Cairn to talk about style in Shanghai, her favorite designers, and running a start-up label in Shanghai.

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SmSh: Tell us a little bit about yourself...

Cairn: I��ve been in Shanghai for two and a half years, it flew by pretty fast. For the first eight months, I didn't like it much but once I started working more, I met a lot of cool people. In California, everything is very spread out but here it's just overpopulated. I had to get used to the lack of personal space. I don��t mind anymore.

SmSh: Where were you before this?

Cairn: I was born and raised in southern California, born in long beach, lived in LA, then went to UCLA and majored in economics. After that I was a broker for options and futures for three years and built the capital to start this.

SmSh: Oh wow, so you have a business background too.

Cairn: I'm also interested in that side, that's always something I can fall back on but [Kaileeni] has always been the ultimate goal. I don't come from a lot of money, my parents are working class so I'm not going to demand their money, I raise my own capital.

SmSh: So it was always your desire to get into fashion. When did you start designing and making clothing?

Cairn: I started in middle school and high school. That was just my hobby. I was such a nerd. I went into the garage after school and designed on my own. My mom knew how to sew so she taught me how to sew.

SmSh: When did you launch your line?

Cairn: About 2 years ago. I started in Shanghai. [The process] was arduous at first because I wasn't completely fluent in Chinese but I met a lot of Chinese people who are very cool and have been very helpful. Also, my customers also offered their help. It��s been really great.

SmSh: So how would you describe your signature style?

Cairn: My style can best be defined as slightly retro with a lot of inspiration from vintage clothing. I think it��s amazing. More and more people in Shanghai are becoming receptive to a different kind of style and vintage is something that is new to them.

SmSh: Sometimes vintage clothing is very periodic but I find your designs to be somewhat timeless.

Cairn: Yea I don��t like to go too periodic, but I just draw inspiration from that. And obviously I want to try and make it slightly modern too. But I try design classic stuff like clothing I could wear today but also ten years from now. Its just changing accessories but I try to stay classic.

SmSh: So how has the whole process of opening shop, launching Kaileeni in Shanghai been?

Cairn: I started with a little store on Madang Lu, right across the street from Xintiandi. I had that for a year. I think in China, the best thing to do is to have a little store front, you need some kind of face. Maybe it's not so advantageous to do it in the States that way, you probably want to do promotion through a boutique but here I think you need a different kind of business plan. And so that's what I did, I had [the boutique store] as my main marketing vehicle. Because it��s such an affluent area, a lot of foreigners live there so I was able to build a clientele base that way.

SmSh: Wow, I know your clothing is also in the States, but just to clarify, it actually started in Shanghai and then was exported out and not the reverse?

Cairn: Right, we have an LLC established [in LA] and around September we closed on Madang Lu and decided to be a studio. Mainly, we just have two stores we offer the clothes in right now. Starting from last week, [my collection] is in Helen Li on Taikang Lu along with her own designs. We will probably open a new store over the summer -- somewhere in the French Concession, I really do like that area.

SmSh: So now, after two years in Shanghai, how would you describe Kaileeni's foothold in the SH fashion scene?

Cairn: The Shanghainese style is a little girly and a little flashy. They do try and be sexy with the shortness but it's too much... a lot of frill. A lot of my pieces are very simple and subtle. A lot of them don't really have the eye for that so with a lot of my Chinese customers I need to kind of educate them on different kinds of style. They're really receptive. As for my design process, I definitely keep the women and the female form in mind when I design. For the clothes, because I'm from California, a lot of women are shapelier. Sometimes the Shanghainese women don't necessary like the clothes because it��s got shape to it and is subtly sexy. I don��t design over-the-top sexy, provocative outfits but maybe that��s what Shanghainese people really like.

SmSh: Who would you say are your regular customers?

Cairn: Most of them are expats because they have a hard time finding clothes that they like here. I don't usually shop here in Shanghai either. But the Chinese customers are usually from Beijing. As of right now, I have regular customers who come in, if they see something on the racks, they'll take it. If it doesn't necessary fit them, they can order it in their size. If I have really good customers then I��ll make it myself. I know it's cheesy but I feel like when I make it, it makes the outfit more special for them.

SmSh: Who are you targeting then with your clothing?

Cairin: I think Chinese women that are I guess are more professional, style conscious and open to a new kind of style. I definitely do design for the expats because it is to their style. They like it; they have an appreciation for it. I keep them in mind a lot.

SmSh: So what's the price range of your pieces?

Cairn: Some of the pieces are 200-300rmb and the dresses and evening gowns go from 1000-3000rmb. But since the fabrics are of a higher quality and the pieces are timeless, you can wear the clothing for a long time and throughout the year.

SmSh: Who are your favorite designers?

Cairn: In terms of designers, I really like Marc Jacobs, he's everyone's favorite. In terms of brands, I like Chloe. There is also this up and coming designer called Janet Kim from New York that I like. She went to Harvard and she has a lot of cute basics.

SmSh: So where do you buy your clothing?

Cairn: I buy my clothing all over. Like I said, I like a lot of vintage stores. I'll go to Melrose [in LA] and the San Francisco. I like to mix them together.

SmSh: Any fashion wisdom to impart to the ladies for the new season...

Cairn: In Shanghai the general population is dressed in dark and drab colors. Some beautiful colors and quality fabrics really are worth investing in because it can really brighten up and make such a difference to someone��s appearance.

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You can find Kaileeni by Cairn at the Helen Li Boutique on Taikang Lu, Lane 210, No. 11a and the Kaileeni by Cairn Studio. For appointments call Cairn at 6466 9581.

Check galleries of previous Kaileeni lines on the web here.