[Offbeat]: Ironic Sweater Market
By Morgan Short, Jan 21st, 2010 | In Shopping
"Offbeat" is a SmartShanghai column about stuff to look at or do in Shanghai that's interesting or weird (relatively, of course), that doesn't fit anywhere else. It appears weekly, monthly, or maybe even annually, when we're not busy working on other superfluous column ideas.
As you read and look at the pictures, hit play on this mp3. They've got it cranked and on repeat on a crappy outdoor sound system at the market. Just trying to recreate the atmosphere. Loose yourself in it -- it's a good song.
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There's a clothing market with a refreshingly retrograde take on contemporary fashion. To most it's known as the "Anxi Clothing Market", but to me and mine, it's The Ironic Sweater Market.
With a target demographic of people emphatically and resolutely in their 50s and over, shoppers shall find nothing hip, cool, or contemporary for sale in the hundreds and hundreds of stalls therein. It's one of the few places to shop for clothes in Shanghai utterly unfettered by anyone's conceptions of the "young" and "modern”. Sweaters, blazers, pants suits, blouses, shoes, golf wear, scarves, leather, leather, leather, leather -- it's off, off, off, off runway -- clothes mostly for middle aged men and women with horribly paying jobs.
And that’s why it's fantastic. A heavy air of futility pervades the shopping area and no one hassles you to buy their wares. When you stroll by the stalls, vendors look at you with deep sadness in their eyes, as if to say, "Yeah, it's a purple knit sweater with Michael Jordan and Tweety Bird on it. Got it off a dead guy. It's not awesome. But it's only going to cost you 7rmb."
Nobody at the Ironic Sweater Market tilts towards the trendy and fashionable, and as such, everyone is free and going off in their own crazy directions with their shit. There is an overwhelming diversity of clothes; no one is stocking the same stuff as anyone else. But here's what they don’t have: mesh hats, baggy pants, hooded sweatshirts, urban wear of any kind.
It's also a great place to check out religious shrines built in holy reverence to simple, unmemorable patent leather shoes.
Here's the logistics: the market is off Kaixuan Lu, about seven blocks south of Yan'an. You go in there and its a little market mini mall thing with winter jackets, and pretty much only winter jackets, in all shapes and sizes for men and women, starting at minus 100rmb. Said jackets have a thick layer of dust on them and might be second hand. Or "vintage". Through that mini mall at the back, it opens up into a street, and across from there is the airplane hanger. It goes on for about half a block in two rows. Go down the left row and you shall find some of the most powerfully uncool sweaters you've ever seen in your life.
If you’ve ever looked at your cab driver and thought to yourself, "Goddamn, is that a lion playing golf on this guy's sweater? I gotta get me one of those", this market is for you.
The Ironic Sweater Market -- so far behind the curve, they're ahead.
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psinology, Jan 21st, 2010
That song is legend...by far the #1 track which without fail can make dancefloors full of locals in waidi go absolutely nuts...Crumpets, Jan 21st, 2010
As IF you left that awesome golf sweater on the rack. (First image). I'd be wearin that baby to Teenage Kicks tonight!rob.r, Jan 22nd, 2010
I once found a c.1990 Vancouver Canucks "varsity jacket" there. Yes, the flaming c-skate one that they wore back when that song came out.Didjelirium, Jan 22nd, 2010
"The Ironic Sweater Market -- so far behind the curve, they're ahead. "Morgan..... whoever sells ya the whatever things you somehow manage to get, praise the communism and share some....
:p
Been to that market, quite a good laugh and perfect if you're planning on trashing yourself at some point and need a last-for-one-day outfit.
cali, Jan 23rd, 2010
can someone give the actual address? how about a map?morgan, Jan 25th, 2010
Sorry about the address being unclear. It's 149 Anxi Lu and the cross street is Kaixuan Lu. It's about seven blocks south of the Yan'an Lu highway, traveling down Kaixuan.Jellymon, Jan 25th, 2010
It's actually on Kaixuan lu not Anxi lu at all. We spent about an hour trying to find it on Anxi, we asked loads of people and finally an old lady told us it moved years ago. We called Shanghai info service and they told us where it is. Well worth the trip though... so much stupid shit in one place!morgan, Jan 25th, 2010
Mother EF. @Cali, real sorry man. @Jellymon, thanks for the correction.When I was down there I looked at the name of the market -- "Anxi" -- and then the street sign, which is actually another street starting with "A". I got confused because I'm a bit dim.
Jellymon is right. Go in off the Kaixuan Lu entrance, which is easiest. The Kaixuan Lu entrance is 7 or 8 blocks south of Yan'an on Kaixuan. It's like 1369 Kaixuan Lu or something. You got into what looks like a little market mini mall (that's the jacket place mainly), and if you walk to the back of that, it opens up again and you're in front of the airplane hanger thing.
Sorry to anyone that searched out Anxi Lu, which is north of Yan'an. Balls.
tripdub, Jan 29th, 2010
So...would it be 149 Anshun Lu and the sign outside says "Anxi"?Please sign in or register to comment