Pho-thetic Pho in Gubei

Pho No. 1 Serves Up a Seriously Disappointing Bowl - By Hien, Nov 06, 07

I was originally going to file this article in our "Revisited" section, as I've been to this joint numerous times and it's been around a little while. I first went there religiously over three years ago, but lately I haven't been back until just a few weeks ago. My quest for quality, authentic Vietnamese Pho, unwavering as I am in it, took me back...

Actually, I've run out of places to try-out and realized I've never reviewed this place even though I had eaten there before. Anyways, as is the case with several places around town, this restaurant boldly declares its supremacy in its very name: Pho No. 1.

Located way out there in Gubei, Pho No. 1 has doubled in size since I last visited, and has become somewhat of a neighbourhood institution for Vietnamese food. The menu is extensive and large, and many of the dishes are definitively Vietnamese. Glancing over the menu, I was quite eager to try the dishes I hadn't had in a while since moving to Shanghai. As was the case that day though, my little stomach could only fit in so much, and I came specifically for the Pho. I decided then that I would have to come back to try out the other dishes.

The Pho section of the menu is extensive, covering every flavor possible, some I haven't even seen before. The experience stretched my knowledge of this wonder dish somewhat, and I'll need to check up on the variations to see if they indeed actually exist at all or not. Concoctions such as the "Sweet and Sour Pho" and "Curry Pho" don't quite register to me. I've seen Chicken Pho and Dry Pho, but never "Sweet and Sour," and, to me, that's just not Pho. It might as well be sweet and sour noodle soup and curry noodle soup. Pho to me is done in a particular way with the same basic ingredients and spices. Of course, there are variations in flavor, and chefs and restaurants have their own styles, signature combinations of spices and some additional ingredients (like Coriander or radish into the soup base). But in the end I'm a purist when it comes to Pho and very reluctant to try new variations. "Sweet and Sour" Pho huh? That's just re-pho-king-diculous...

Anyways, enough of that. The Pho which I eventually ended up ordering came in the smallest bowl I've ever seen (except in Vietnam of course), and was tasteless to say the least. My immediate impression was that I'd been served a bowl of instant noodles. Actually, I would rather get a box of instant Pho from the shop and add in fresh meats and greens myself at home. For 30rmb a pop this was one of the worst Pho's I've ever had. Disappointing and quite sad really, since Pho No. 1 was one of the best places to come for my comfort food a couple of years ago. Standards have plummeted to a staggering low.

In addition to the Pho, I also ordered 'Banh Cuon,' the steamed variety. This dish is supposed to have a light rice wrapping, but Pho No. 1's version comes with a very thick skin and the fish sauce that it came with it was again very disappointing; it had been dowsed with dry chilly powder rather the fresh variety. The dry chilli powder just doesn't cut it for flavor, and if you like your Vietnamese hot and spicy then you can skip this dish completely.

After the meal, my initial thoughts about coming back to try the other dishes were quickly washed away. Alas, I'm very sorry to report to all you Pho-addicts out there that I still have yet to find a good bowl.

Hey, but on a positive note the Vietnamese Coffee at Pho No. 1 was one of the best I've had in Shanghai. So that's something. My next (re)visit will be to Fong's (someone just told me this place has closed, anyone who knows if this is for real or not please let me know) at Lippo Plaza, stay tuned till then.

Hien's quest to find the best Pho in Shanghai has led him tirelessly to restaurants across the city. Read more of his Pho reviews here:

- The Pho Quest Continues... - Phostar on Hongmei Lu
- Le Garcon Chinois - Ssssh it's a secret
- The Vietnamese Blues - Saigon Blue, a new Vietnamese Restaurant
- Vietnamese is the new Black? - The new 'Quan Vietnam'

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