This article is part of "Revisited". In "Revisited," SmartShanghai sends reviewers out for seconds at the city's familiar and long-lasting restaurants, eateries and cafes to find out what has enabled some restaurants to succeed and improve when others have been little more than flavors of the month. . More of Revisited here »

[Revisited] Moroccan Homegrown

A New Look for Marrakech - By Michael, Dec 12, 07

Marrakech opened on Fuxing Xi Lu over a year ago. It quickly became a favorite of ours. We loved their lunch specials, sitting in the backyard white tents, enjoying the mint tea (30rmb), fresh Moroccan breads, couscous and tagines. Unfortunately, a few months after opening, the kitchen started to slip, the portions got smaller and service was scattered. We stopped going.

Then, last month we noticed a lot of construction activity going on in the building.

Curious to see what was new, we returned this week to find they've expanded the restaurant to include a backyard balcony, a live music room, and the Spice Lounge.
We sampled a lot on the menu, and while we found the portions agreeable again, the food was hit-and-miss. Generally, the flavors just aren't as rich and complex as we've experienced at Moroccan eateries around the world. Still, we really enjoyed the chicken tagine (78rmb), moist and savory with tart green olives (and aided by a hearty scoop of harissa chili paste). The vegetable couscous (58rmb) was a good compliment to the BBQ lamb skewers (68rmb). The harissa soup (35rmb) makes a fine, smokey-spicy starter. And the fresh-baked bread, which comes complimentary with every meal, was still as excellent as we remember it.

The deep-fried appetizers weren't as good, lacking flavor. The maakhoda (45rmb), filled with mashed potatoes, eggs and parsley, were bland until generous sprinkles of cumin, pepper and salt. The briouates (45rmb) filled with chicken, vermicelli, olives and peanuts, were more interesting. Also, on the night we visited, none of the desserts on the menu were available. We left wanting couscous with spiced raisins and powdered sugar, a standard on many Moroccan menus.

Marrakech's strengths are in its atmosphere - so cozy and inviting, and although we loath to use the word "exotic," nothing else in Shanghai comes this close to warrant its usage.

The ground floor is like a white-washed mud hut with raw wooden beams, and you'll have to journey upstairs into a labyrinth of smaller rooms. You'll find one room full of African drums (live music on weekend nights) which occasionally turns into an interactive jam session (but never interfering with the dining room). And further still, up and around a corner, the new Spice Lounge. This space is going to become very popular soon. There's a selection of home-made spiced liquors and cocktails, and a setting that's equally appropriate for a small company party or a laid back gathering with friends. There's a mezzanine with secluded floor cushions for intimate moments, hookah pipes for communal smoking, a proper table for group dining, and space to dance a bit. The eclectic and affordable wine list is another bonus. When was the last time you had an Algerian red or a Moroccan rose?

Proprietor Judy is full of creative energy and gregarious joy. She's done an amazing job at decorating the place, including recycling local "found objects" into what looks like authentic African art.

There's lots of love in this place, and the staff are the type that remember you. We have a feeling, and hope, that after the new Spice Lounge area is launched and running smooth, attention can be re-focused on the cooking, which with some minor tweaks, can be very good. If so, Marrakech will again be on our top list. Shanghai needs a place like this!