In Schanghai steht ein Hofbräu Haus

The German legend needs reworking - but the beer's good - By Alex, May 07, 08

For our non-German readers who may not be familiar with the German legend that is Hofbrauhaus, this 500 year-old institution is a famous brewery and restaurant in the heart of the Bavarian capital. Last week, Hofbrauhaus opened their second venue in Shanghai at 39 Taojiang Lu (the old "Castle Oktober").

Over the centuries, the Hofbrauhaus has become intertwined with German culture and history.
More than one infamous political figure had graced their doors: Adolf Hitler outlined the paper that became the basis of the ethos of the Nazi Party while downing Hofbrauhaus brews -- and what delightful conversation he must have been while he was doing it. Vladimir Lenin (not John) frequented the joint during his tenure in Germany, and is said to have proffered this little bit of wino wisdom from his experiences therein: "beer washes away all class barriers."

So, whether you're an Adolf, a Vladimir, or just your average non-despotic beer connoisseur, the Hofbrauhaus is a key attraction when visiting Munich. It's the mother of the Munich Beer Festival and home to some of Germany's best beers. This microcosm of Deutschland features beer, dirndls, folk music, sausages, schnitzel, pretzels, roast pork, and busty blond German waitresses balancing obscene amounts of beer.

So last year, when I heard a Hofbrauhaus was opening in Pudong, I hurried off to the former marshlands. My first and only visit there was a big disappointment. Located in a deserted strip mall near the Science and Technology Museum, I was dismayed at the cold and unfriendly interior, tiny menu, and acoustically grating entertainment program performed by a drunken one-man band.

Paulaner was just a few blocks away, offering a better view, a beer garden (known to non-German's as a "patio"), and better food at lower prices. Shanghai's Hofbrauhaus might as well have printed "doomed" on its steins.

But last week, Hofbrauhaus took over the former "Castle Oktober," a beautiful old villa in the French Concession. With cosy wooden rooms spread over three floors, this venue at last captures the ambiance of a traditional Bavarian restaurant.

Lovely beer garden aside, I pondered if it was smart business to replace a failed German restaurant in a high rent location with another German restaurant.

My initial visit to this Hofbrauhaus was short-lived. Thanks to a construction site next-door, even O'Malley's with its hordes of kids and red-faced Irishmen posed a quieter alternative.

In the name of good journalism and with my eye on the Pulitzer, I returned for dinner. The menu is even smaller than in the Pudong outlet, and only seven dishes are actually German, while the others are categorized under "International Kitchen." Food is as bland as it is inauthentic, and there isn't nearly enough on the plate. And they charge extra for bread. Once again, Hofbrauhaus chose a location four minutes walking distance from (the much better) Paulaner.

So, why bother you ask? You'll visit the Hofbrauhaus for the same reason its parent branch has been packed for more than 500 years in Munich: the beer. For fans of sweet wheat beer the Hofbrauhaus is a paradise. They serve three excellent self-brewed beers on tap (a dark beer, a lager and a wheat beer). I wasn't surprised to hear my local dinner partner saying it was some of the best beer she'd ever tasted. Beers are priced in the 60rmb-90rmb range for pints.

When the construction next-door ends and the management figures out how to play German music, Hofbrauhaus could potentially become a suitable spot to swig a cool wheat beer this summer. We'll check back later.

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Jiminy Cricket

May 07, 08

Brilliant. Two paragraphs into a review of a German restaurant, and you’re already bringing up the Nazi’s? Now, I realize that as a writer, you’re trying to make a rather dull topic interesting, but I would imagine there’s more than one way to skin this cat. But not to fear, it gets better. “Vladimir Lenin (not John) frequented the joint during his tenure in Germany...” Now here again you’re too clever by half. I must admit that I don’t even get this. John Lennon didn’t have a tenure in Germany, so you really didn’t need the cute aside. (Although it does help to establish your breadth of both culture and history.) You mention something in your post about good journalism, so I’ll just help you out here a bit: take a gander at the big banner pictured at the top of you post. You’ll notice that this new location is a Hofbräu, not a Hofbräuhaus. Why the different name? What’s the nature of their affiliation that requires them to have a different name? I don’t know, and you didn’t appear interested enough to find out. Lastly, you write, “I pondered if it was smart business to replace a failed German restaurant in a high rent location with another German restaurant.” Say what you want about the food at Castle Oktober, it certainly had (has) the best outdoor area in the French Concession, and with some proper management and a decent PR team, I imagine that they can start to capitalize on their location. Visit Cottons or Sashas on a nice weekend day, and it’s obvious there’s room for another beer garden. All in all, job well done.

alex

May 07, 08

"hofbraeu" is the beer brewery. The brewery owns the Hofbraeuhaus. So in the end it's the same thing. On their namecards, their menu and on their website (http://www.hofbraeu.com.cn) they do call it Hofbraeuhaus.
I agree it's a beautiful garden with great potential, minus the cheesy lightning, the bad music and, as mentioned above, the construction noise.

Jiminy Cricket

May 07, 08

Construction noise would really have nothing to do with Hofbraeu, or O'Malley's, for that matter, and that complaint fades away in a few weeks. As for cheesy lighting, I don't really know what that means. I've only been once since the ownership change, and I sat outside, but I didn't notice anything cheesy. (As for the music, Hofbraeu can get in line for smart looking places in Shanghai that play crap music.) Now, back to good journalism. The website you provide above is for the Pudong location. I can't find any reference to the new location on the site. So that doesn't really help answer the question as to why the one in Pudong has the "Haus" attached to the name, while the new one doesn't.

terjia

May 07, 08

I was forced into crossing the street and visiting this new establishment, and rankly i dont care about it or, jiminy cricket, who clearly has way too much time on his hands. my old rugby buddy flew into tokyo and we had to leave watching the game at omalleys because he was afraid hed drunkenly stumble and crush a small child. isnt there a better meeting place for familes with youngins than a bar that plays rugby games and has monthly whiskey nights?