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SmartShanghai's Essential Guide to

Art & Stage in Shanghai

By Melanie; Last updated June 4, 2008

Contemporary Chinese Art in an Atom

Giving an overview of Chinese Contemporary Art is not as hard as it may sound given that Contemporary art in the middle kingdom is really a 25 year-old phenomenon. Arts got really exciting in the early 80s as young artists devoured texts, images and ideas that had been denied access to during the Cultural Revolution. Two of the genres to emerge during this period are Political Pop and Cynical Realism - signs of the times that took advantage of the relative freedom of expression by generation social commentary images. However, in the 90s creative freedom met with new restrictions and many of the most talented and renowned Chinese artists relocated abroad where they can work and exhibit unfettered by censorship. Over the past decade the art world has gone China-crazy, creating a speculation based market that does not always reflect the talent-base. On the down side, this booming scene is responsible for generating a lot of kitsch, and artistic clichés that capitalize on western perceptions of China are selling for outlandish prices. For the individual with limited knowledge looking to make a purchase, the best gauge is always to go with what you enjoy; what you would be pleased to see hanging in your living room in 10 years even if it's market worth is a single jiao. The art scene in Shanghai lacks the biting edge that other aspects of the city exhibit. State-run museums mean that many exhibitions are quite tame in content and form, while the business side of the arts has turned many galleries into shops rather than media for creativity. Nevertheless, there are some very talented artists, gallery owners and artists that are working to breathe more life into the city's art scene.

Galleries

With the soaring foreign interest in Chinese art, galleries are popping up in Shanghai at breakneck speed. In fact, at the moment there are more galleries than worthy artists and gallery owners are (verbally) fighting over the top talent. What does all the ruckus means for the average gallery-browser or individual collector? You will have to navigate plenty of rubbish to get to the good stuff. There's nothing wrong with developing discerning taste however, and sifting through is a respectable technique for honing your eye. The following lists areas in the city to find contemporary galleries, small and large, local and international.

Moganshan Lu

When it opened in the late 90s, Moganshan Lu was an underground refuge of loft spaces for artists seeking low rent. Now the not-so-convenient street in the industrial Suzhou Creek district is home to approximately 40 galleries and artist studios. With its heavy tourist foot traffic, Timezone 8 bookshop and cafes selling 25rmb cups of coffee, Moganshan Lu has morphed into something of a strip mall for the art lover. Although many experts in town criticize Moganshan for selling overpriced wares of questionable quality, no one denies that there are some worthy venues. Two of the best spaces on the lane are Shine Art Space, which tends to exhibit to oil paintings and M97, a photography Mecca.

696 Weihai Lu

Rebelling against Moganshan Lu, a group of younger artists moved into the century-old British style buildings at 696 Weihai Lu a couple of years ago, creating an incubator for multi media art. Notably, these buildings probably once served as opium storage facilities. Although the entire complex nearly became another architectural fatality last summer when the government threatened to raze it to build skyscrapers, the fledgling community caught a break at the last minute and renewed their leases. Feet planted a bit more firmly in the concrete, 696 has sprouted a couple of low-profile galleries in addition to the 30-something artists who rent studio space there.

Taikang Lu

Once you locate one of the many well-hidden entrances, Taikang Lu offers a delightful maze of alleyways lined with artisan galleries and cafes. Some spaces are more tourist-geared than others but expect a range of quirky photography, handmade jewelry and pottery. Any one of the small restaurants will satiate your cheesecake desires. The newest space in Taikang is Gallery Now. More of a lounge stuffed with tattered vintage furniture than an art venue, this East Village throwback is a welcome addition.

Wu Jiao Chang Art Space

The Wu Jiao Chang Art Space, about 30 minutes north of city center, opened in 2008 with more than 30 new galleries such as UWANTART, Caves Art Center) as well as some relocated Shanghai staples – Shine Art Space has its second branch here. Although this center for art houses some of the better abstract works Shanghai has to offer, the location is so astoundingly inconvenient it will be hard-pressed to stay in business.

French Concession Galleries

A few gallery owners have realized the power of the accessible. Cropping up along the tree-lined French Concession are hot spots like Andrew James Art, Art Labor and Art+Shanghai. These galleries are more polished and presentable than most of the loft spaces found around town, but on the downside "scene-y," with their cocktail party crowd. Nevertheless, the French Concession galleries have unearthed a niche, and are responsible for bringing in some of the more well-known and idiosyncratic artists and putting Shanghai's art scene on the international map.

International Shows

Sh Contemporary

And the show must go on. Despite the conspicuous absence of last year's director, Geneva-based wheeler art-dealer Pierre Huber, China's only international contemporary art fair will make its second annual appearance at Shanghai's Exhibition Center. Last year, 130 galleries from more than 20 countries lined the many halls of the center's extravaganza. The irony of hosting a massive display of decadent contemporary art in the sprawling palace gifted by the Soviets to China in 1954 is hard to miss. Despite the obvious incongruities, "Shanghai Art Fair International Contemporary Art Exhibition" offers a chance to explore the influence of China's tumultuous history on modern society through the works of Chinese artists, as well get a glimpse of what artists are doing outside of the Middle Kingdom.

Last year, pieces from around the world lined the gauche halls of the "Palace of Sino-Soviet Friendship" as locals and expatriates combed the exhibitor's stalls and cubicles examining works ranging from insipid to inspired. Although works by foreign artists ran the gamut, Chinese artists tended to gravitate towards a well-worn theme: the transition from radical egalitarianism to free-market capitalism. Are artistic attempts to deal with the trauma of the Cultural Revolution cathartic or trite? Only time will tell.

Shanghai Biennale

Pronounced BEE-AN-NAH-LEY. It's Italian for Biennial and like the name suggests, happens every other year. The event is hosted by the Shanghai Art Museum in People's Square but takes place at numerous venues across the city. With its various talks, lectures, exhibitions and installations, Shanghai's Biennale of yore have wavered between cutting edge and stale. This year's event comes on the heels of the Beijing Olympics so it should draw some massive crowds and hopefully a little "out there" performance art.

Film & Cinema

With DVDs for sale on every corner for US$ 1, why would anyone bother sitting in a theater? While such snobbery (or thriftiness) may be the reigning attitude, the film scene in Shanghai is actually alive, if not quite thriving. If you're looking for the traditional American Blockbuster experience (with Chinese subtitles) you can find it at a number of theaters such as UME in Xintiandi, Heping Cinema, Grand Cinema, and Yonghua Cinema in Xujiahui's Grand Gateway Towers. But get ready for hiked up prices if movies like Ironman and Harry Potter are your bag - you can pay as much as 100rmb for a show, before popcorn. The other item to look out for is the censorship - American movies may or may not appear in their full glory on the Chinese big screen.

Screenings

Shanghai's alternative, film community is burgeoning. Small, underground (and less underground) venues are tucked in pockets around the city and new spots continue to open. Although on the face of things Shanghai can appear barren of film culture, often finding a movie to go to is just a matter of putting in the effort. Generally affordable in comparison to the big theater game, with movies ranging anywhere from 20rmb to free. Weekly screenings held at popular venues such as Arch Café, which boasts a basement screening room, Vienna Café, which shows movies ranging from Indie to Blockbuster and The Blues Room, which shows movie-lover movies, like The Godfather. If you're in the mood for something a little more alternative (and on the weekend) you could check out The Image Tunnel on Moganshan Lu, a rickety venue where you'll find short films by current Chinese directors (English subtitles). Another option is Projection216 on avenue of the bohemians, aka Taikang Lu, which screens two films on every Saturday from a variety of countries. Downstream Garage is an underground art house that serves as a platform for any number of experiences including the occasional film and the annual Mecooon Film Festival in July. MoCA, which is morphing from museum into arts center, now has a private screening room that seats approximately 50. Cultural hub averages 3-4 screenings a month, usually films in some way relevant to living in Shanghai.For foreign films, you might look up the French Alliance offers a steady stream of films in French with Mandarin subtitles, while the German Consulate screens German movies with English subtitles.

Film Festivals

Film festivals appear to be on the rise in Shanghai so it's all just a matter of timing and willingness to seek out off-the-beaten track venues. Most important and longest festival is the Shanghai International Film Festival. It must be said that some SIFF productions fall just short of deserving the moniker "film." However, these annual screenings comprise a major Shanghai event bringing in directors from all over the world and showcasing the best in current Chinese cinema. SIFF is a 10 day fiasco that starts sometime in June and occupies cinemas dispersed throughout the city. Other festivals include a 24 hour marathon at Ke Center, Pangea Day, a worldwide movie celebration that sprouted a Shanghai satellite in 2008, Mecooon Film Festival and the monthly Art Salon at Image Tunnel.

Movie Theater Movies

Chinese movies being shown at the local theaters are what the populace call "sheng ye dianying." The phrase more or less translates to "remarkably crappy." These on-screen disgraces are good for anyone with intermediate-to-high level Mandarin looking to practice language skills—and not much else.

Museums

At the moment there are more than 1000 museums in the People's Republic of China. 2008 is the year of Shanghai's fifth international Biennale, which promises to bring more attention to the already booming scene. Worthwhile museums can be found in People's Square, the northern Hongkou district and out in Pudong. Museum browsing is a good time to remember that China was under communist dictatorship only three decades ago: there is still no curator's degree in the country and the labeling of displayed art is an as-of-yet-overcome challenge. But considering that there is zero infrastructure for non-profit organizations and no tax benefits for donating to cultural venues, the quality of Shanghai's museums is impressive.

People's Square

If you travel to People's Square you can cover the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center, the Shanghai Museum and the Shanghai Art Museum, which are all within walking distance and the same stop off the Line 1 subway. These spaces offer overviews of architecture, historical and contemporary Chinese art and have year-round permanent exhibitions. Shanghai's Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCA) is also located in the People's Square greenery. MoCA is a privately-operated recent addition to Shanghai's museums and rotates its exhibitions approximately every two months. Most shows at MoCA involve international artists.

Pudong

Once you move away from People's Square it becomes increasingly difficult to find English-speaking employees at the museums. Don't let that deter you. Pudong's museums are considerably less convenient but offer an entirely alternate experiences from their Puxi counterparts. Gracefully immense, the glass and steel Science & Technology Museum houses literally hundreds of hands-on exhibits. The gravity room and Chinese-dubbed American iMax are a good time; the waves of yowling children are not. Once in Pudong, it would be a shame to skip the Zendai MoMA, which is a small, less-crowded venue in a residential district that happens to display some of the world's most renowned Asian artists.

Hongkou District

Take Line 3 to Baoxing Lu to access this northern district and be prepared to walk through some very "local" neighborhoods before you reach the museums. An archway indicates that you have arrived at L-shaped Duolun Lu, which is conspicuously bereft of motorized vehicles. At the start of the street are Doland: Shanghai Duolun Museum of Modern Art and the Osage Gallery in a restored mansion. The largely intact old-neighborhood was once where Lu Xun, the "father of modern Chinese literature" resided. Lu Xun's residence has been preserved and is open to the public. One can also visit Lu Xun's Memorial Hall and the Zhu Qizhan Art Museum on Doulun Lu. Doulun Lu's extensive cafes and shops allow you to make a day of it.

Ke Center for the Contemporary Arts

Theater

Largely due to a lack of demand, English language theater in Shanghai is still in the fledgling stage. Nevertheless, the past couple of years have seen an increase in Western-style theatrical performances. Renditions of major Broadway shows including Phantom of the Opera, The Lion King and Mamma Mia all made appearances at the Shanghai Grand Theater.

Shanghai Dramatic Arts Center

This lovely theatrical center in the French Concession is a study in continuous improvement. Founded in 1995 as collaboration between the Shanghai People's Art Theater and the Shanghai Youth Drama Troupe. The center has since staged more than 500 dramas by classical, modern and contemporary playwrights, both from the West and China. Recently, the center engaged traveling troupe, TNT Theater Britain, which boasts a small cast requiring most of the actors to play double and triple roles. TNT's 2008 production of Hamlet was a huge success, selling out every show.

East West Theater

Now in its third year East West Theater Company is a not-for-profit community group dedicated to bringing western-style, English language theater to Shanghai as well as nurturing amateur talent. Performances range from drama to musical and have included works as various as Shakespeare's "A Miidsummer Night's Dream"” to Charles Dickens' "A Christmas Carol" and A.R. Gurney's "The Dining Room." The company is comprised of English and Chinese speaking actors and performs at venues throughout such as the LPE International Networking Society and Deke Erh Arts Center.

ERA: Intersection of Time

Chinese Variety Art is a 2000-plus year old phenomenon. However, ERA: Intersection of Time, which kicked off in 2005 explodes the Chinese Acrobat genre. Whereas Chinese acrobat shows are normally a series of unrelated acts, designed to awe but not necessarily cohere, ERA is a full two-act performance with a thin, but nevertheless existing storyline. This thunderous amalgam of live music, acrobatics and theatrics, infused with all the modern technology a couple million USD can buy is threaded together by a shimmering love story and blatant thematic nods to the momentum generating city of frenzy, Shanghai. For ticketing click here.

Architecture

Probably the first thing you'll notice upon arriving in Shanghai is architectural eclecticism. Never has a city existed with a greater mix of modern, old, shabby, chic, quaint and grotesque. From the financial district of Pudong with its outer space like structures, to the 4,000+ skyscrapers in the city proper, to the alleyway home unequipped with indoor plumbing, the disparities reflect the astoundingly different economic layers of the city. You will notice, there is no distinct plan to the architectural layout. However, there are a number of distinct types of architecture to keep your eyes open for as they reflect on the plethora of people inhabiting this diverse city.

Longtangs

Longtangs are the labyrinthine area of long, narrow alleys with low-rise structures called Shikumen (stone gate) that are at once ubiquitous and invisible – much like the people they shelter. This style of home blossomed during the second half of the 19th century as a direct result of the Taiping Rebellion. Hoards of Chinese seeking refuge in the foreign concessions of Shanghai protected themselves from looting and fighting behind these stone gates. Over the past 15 years more than 20 million square meters of Shanghai’s old buildings have been demolished and the remaining longtang quarters are often crumbling, and neglected. In fact, you can walk through a longtang in central French concession – what at first appears to be a demolition site rapidly takes shape into a family home, broken windows, half-razed floors and families animals and produce coexist. New York Times journalist Howard French and Chinese documentary filmmaker Haolun Shu are just two of the artists hurrying to capture the longtang life before it disappears from history altogether.