Juicy little morsels of pork or crab roe surround by a succulent soup and encased in a paper thin skin, the famous Xiao Long Bao beloved by so many of us can be found all over Shanghai -- ask where the best ones are at, and the answer invariably is Nanxiang Mantou Dian (Nanxiang Bun Shop) in the heart of Yu Yuan.

But in the same time it takes to queue at this popular restaurant on a Saturday lunchtime, you could probably make the trek out to the proper home of Xiao Long Bao in Nanxiang Town, and eat at any of the hundreds of soupy dumpling shops that fill this sleepy little Shanghai suburb, located in the Northwest part of the city.

The Basics

Dumpling enthusiasts, head to Nanxiang Town.

And in addition to the dumplings, the 1000-year old town (formerly known as Cuoxi) has some great attractions: Guyi Gardens, Nanxiang Twin Towers, Ancient Town and Yunxiang Temple -- worth it for a day out of the city.

How to Get There

Couldn’t be easier -- take Metro line 11 north toward Jiading and jump off at Nianxiang. Take Exit 1 and walk south along Huyi highway. In 15 minutes, you’ll come to Guyi Gardens -- a fantastic stop to build up an appetite for the feast to come. If you want to skip that, another one minute walk brings you to Gulong Restaurant -- the home of Xiao Long Bao. And from there a quick right in to Nanxiang Jifeng Street brings you into the heart of “Nanxiang Ancient Town” where the Twin Towers, Yunxiang Temple and more than 20 restaurants are within spitting distance.

In and Around Nanxiang

Let’s go back to Guyi Yuan (“Ancient Splendor Gardens”). Built during the Ming Dynasty (and “slightly” overhauled in 2009) you’re going to be partaking in such delights as “Flower Fragrance Park”, “Crane in Stream Pond” and “Moonlit Bamboo”. Typical garden fare (it’s one of the five classical Shanghai Gardens), but it really is worth a wander. 12rmb gets you in. A caveat: this is a popular garden so be ready to share it… however, it is possible though to escape the crowds by heading in to one of the many pavilions that are dotted around the area. Pick any one of the amazing mosaic paths and follow it to a hidden gem. The cool white walls and classical arches house pots (and pots) of water lilies, bonsai and stones in the aptly named Stone House. Rock formations and bridges abound this is a photographers dream.









If you cannot wait any long to sample Xiao Long Bao delights, the Tea House serves up various portion sizes (15 – 30rmb) and is very popular.

Carrying on, you head to the heart of ancient Nanxiang, over the Baoji Bridge. From there you’ve got the “Twin Towers”, built for the God of Longevity. The original towers were practically destroyed back in 1766, but the new, seven-sided 11-meter replacements look pretty convincing. Off then to the Yunxian Temple, 8rmb gains you access to a pretty standard temple and the standard bird’s eye view of the city, which is always neat. Also in the basement is 1000’s of small Buddha statues -- a strangely unexpected sight.

Head back into the ancient town for a wander around narrow cobbled alley ways and tiny shops selling everything from cloths and wigs, to musical instruments and rice wine. The highlight, though, is certainly the dumpling restaurants comprising of half the town. This is the place to eat – not just dumplings, but stinky doufu, spring rolls, glutinous pancakes, biscuits, and more, more, more.





In the center of the town lies the Tan Gardens unfortunately under reconstruction (or demolition) at the time of writing, but peering through the construction site that surrounds it and there’s some amazing stone work. Hopefully that will reopen soon. Take a stroll to the east side of town and head over one of the bridges for the local place to people watch; see the odd boat float by and make room for a second serving of dumplings.

The Verdict

So should you go? If you are a Xiao Long Bao aficionado, it’s a no-brainer. Into classical gardens, sure this is the place for you. As far as ancient villages go, you might be a little disappointed. It’s not as large as the famous water towns and not as picturesque as Qibao. Nanxiang still has charm, though, and one huge advantage: no crowds of flag following tourists. So chow down with the locals and enjoy.

No comments yet