How good is your knowledge of Chinese literature? If A Dream of Red Mansions ( Hóng Lóu Mèng -- 紅樓夢) graces your book shelf -- and you actually managed to get further than a quick browse through – than this is the place for you. Daguanyuan is a replica of the magnificent garden created within the Jia residence for imperial concubine Yuanchun, as described in the aforementioned well-known Qing Dynasty-era Chinese novel, and is a popular tourist spot for its fans to see said garden in real life.

If you’re like me, though, and Cao Xueqin just doesn’t do it for you, Daguanyuan (translates to “Grand View Garden”) can still make for a pretty fascinating out of town trip.

How to get there…the long way

Take Metro Line 1 or 3 to Shanghai Railway Station, and from there, follow the signs for south square, and local and district buses. Emerging into the blinding sunlight ask for the bus, Shang Zhu Xian (朱线), which will take you to Qingpu Bus station for 8rmb. At Qingpu, transfer to bus no. 1 heading to Daguanyuan (大观园). That’s another 6rmb, and one hour later you’ll arrive. Buses leave about every 15 minutes.

Major challenge is finding the right bus -- it’s a name not a number. If you’re Chinese is a bit rough and you don’t plan it out before hand, you’ll be keeping the locals amused as you hop from one bus to another, desperately hoping that you’ve found the right one. Stay positive. You’ll persevere eventually and before long, you’re off through Hongqiao, on to the Huqingping Highway, finally arriving in Qingpu, a suburb of Shanghai. From there it’s a quick transfer and off into the countryside, passing through the water village Zhujiajiao, Oriental Green Boat Park, and the entrance to Shanghai Boat and Yacht Club, eventually arriving at Daguanyuan.

How to get there…the short way

Jump on the Hu Shang Xian (沪商线) bus which starts at the Danshui Lu and Changle Lu crossroad. It’s 8rmb and only two hours. Buses are less frequent, departing at 7am, 8am, 9:20am, 1pm, and 4pm.

The Basics

Daguanyuan is west, outside of the city center -- it’s the mid-point between Jiashan in the south and Kunshan towards the north, right on the eastern bank of Dianshan Lake. As the crow flies, that’s 65kms from downtown Shanghai. It basically consists of scenic architecture and gardens, designed to emulate the elegance and exquisiteness of the gardens and structures in A Dream of Red Mansion

It’s open from 8am to 5pm – a day trip – and entrance is 60rmb.

Grand Views Abound

As you head into the gardens, you’ll be taking in some classic Qing style architecture. You’ve got your Yihongyuan (the happy red court), Xiaoxiangguan (the bamboo lodge), Daguanlou (the grand view tower), and more. Wander through these, avoiding the Green Lattice Nunnery where the resident ‘monks’ (this is a theme park) entice you to wave some incense around and then try to charge you 200rmb for the pleasure.

The buildings are reminiscent of YuYuan, albeit reconstructed according to scenes in the book, and the gardens are really quite beautiful. Head to the far end of the park and peering through the perimeter wall you can catch glimpses of 63km Dianshan Lake. Wander around the walkways and over small bridges soaking up the tranquil atmosphere until the ubiquitous tour guides with their megaphones catch up to you...

Facilities in the park are limited with a small tea shop (good view from the top of the building) but the surrounding area has some small concessions and the odd restaurant can be found on the main road.

Still More Grand Views Abound

You haven’t finished yet though; next stop Peach Blossom Island. Follow the road around the outside of the gardens to a stepping stone cause way and hop across to what is probably the scariest island in China -- it may have been inhabited at one time, although people don’t adhere to that. Grab a quick view of Yuandang Lake and hightail it back to civilization.

On to the Azure Cloud Pagoda, climb 10 flights of steps for a great view over the region, some really fresh air, and total isolation. In the distance you can see the next destination, the Cultural Village of the Nationalities, which sounds educational but is pretty surreal. On the main road, head back towards SBYC, take first left into the Bamboo restaurant entrance and, voila, a cultural gem: a Tibetan monastery, an Inner Mongolian dwelling, two buildings we couldn’t identify, and 100 Laser Quest participants. Yep you are in the middle of a cultural village war zone. Watch out for the cavalry… aka a guy on a pony giving people rides through the mayhem.

Finally, it’s off to Plum Garden, 100 meters up the road -- a slightly overgrown and sadly neglected garden but only 10m from the fast (and totally packed) bus back to Shanghai.

Worth It?

Yeah, maybe. The journey is long and crowded but cheap. The gardens are really well maintained and probably worth the entrance fee but the surrounding area is a bit unloved. We’re guessing this was a destination in the past but not so popular now.

But what the heck -- go and explore and it can be an adventure...

More info at Daguanyuan's official page.