The island of Putuoshan is a five hour journey from the centre of Shanghai, but with the sun blazing and the pollution levels rising during a recent hot spell it looked like an attractive escape. The ferry there was surprisingly comfortable, although it might have been different had it been full. There's room for about 300 people, but not even a third of the seats were taken the day I went, so there was plenty of space. Beware if you get seasick though – on the way back the boat rocked back and forth at alarming angles. If you think the Chinese are good at spitting then let me tell you, they’re even better at retching.

I decided to explore Putuoshan on foot – the island's not very big and I can't stand tour groups. Anyway, I fancied myself the intrepid explorer. The first thing I came across was the Hundred Step Beach, which you have to pay to get on. I’m not sure what I paid for exactly, but I did have the place almost to myself. What bliss compared to Shanghai! I wrenched off my shoes and tore off my socks – ah, there it was: the warm sand beneath my feet and the sea lapping at my toes. I strolled along the beach and then lay on a rock in the sun, feeling like a lizard but hoping I wouldn’t end up looking like one.

What I hadn't expected was the difference between this beach and those in Europe. Perhaps thankfully, no one here was reclining on a sun-lounger wearing a bikini smaller than Barbie's. In fact, the few people I did see hadn't even taken off their shoes. There was no swimming either, but I guess it's hard to get excited about water the colour of cappuccino.
I think walking rather than going from site to site by bus was one of the best decisions I made. For one thing, I was undisturbed for the most part, just drifting across the island's roads by myself, except for the occasional passing minibus. And it wasn't difficult either – the signs at every crossroads enabled me to navigate my way around the island.

As I went along, my curiosity took me up some steps, to find out what was at the top. I stumbled upon a temple. Sitting in the afternoon sunlight of the courtyard was just one other person, but in the temple itself a group of red-robed monks were chanting prayers, ringing bells and striking drums. I sat there for some time listening to their singing and feeling calm and peaceful. Just as I was leaving, thinking to myself what a magical place this was, I heard the crackle of a megaphone. My feeling of harmony was shattered by the arrival of a herd of yellow-capped tourists clutching bouquets of bright pink incense – but I guess that’s the reality of any holiday destination.

In the end, despite my aversion to seafood, I found myself having dinner in one of Putuoshan's many seafood restaurants. I had crab, shrimps and celery with squid, which set me back 130rmb. The food was good, but it was frustrating wrestling with the shells. I have to say I couldn't see any other kinds of restaurants, although perhaps if I'd moved away from the sea front I would have had more luck. After that, I had to retreat to the hotel – I couldn’t face any sort of nightlife after walking all day.

I really enjoyed my time on Putuoshan. To go somewhere that's not inhabited by several million people was great, but I feel more than 1000rmb was expensive for a day trip. I think two nights, or one night and the overnight ferry home, would be better value. Two whole days would also give you more time to relax on the beaches and explore the island at a leisurely pace. Returning an overnight would give you the opportunity to see the sun rise over the Bund too. Then again, if you go when the weather’s hot and sunny, you might find you don’t care when or how you come back – so long as it's not for a very long time...

Need to go:

• To the beach! The two most well-known beaches are the Hundred Step Beach and the Thousand Step Beach. The former charges 10rmb for entry but is supposedly equipped with sun loungers and parasols (albeit at a cost), as well as quad bikes and banana boats. At night it also occasionally has karaoke parties. Thousand Step Beach is free and bigger but has no facilities.
• Puji Monastery is the most accessible and famous monastery on Putuoshan, sitting on the island's central axis. It costs 5rmb to enter. Expect the usual parade of tourist facilities in close proximity though: hotels, restaurants and grocery stores.
• Guanyin Statue is a 33 metre high bronze statue of the Goddess of Mercy. She sits on the south-east corner of Putuoshan by the sea and views the surrounding hills. She's reputed to protect fisherman and islanders, but who doesn't like big shiny things anyway?
• Mount Putuo may sit at less than 300 metres above sea level but it's a fairly strenuous climb up approximately 1000 steps. The views across the island are great though, especially if you can pick out Guanyin, glinting in the sun. A 40rmb return cable car is available.

What to eat and where:

• Seafood is plentiful and revered in Putuoshan. It's best enjoyed from one of the bright orange stands on the promenade in the evenings, as the freshest stuff has been caught the same evening.
• Vegetarian food is common, since the island is dominated by Buddhism. Most of the restaurants on Putuoshan will offer a large number of vegetarian or ‘fake meat' dishes mimicking traditional Chinese food. A good place to find such cuisine is at temples, where it is also pretty cheap.
• Beer brewed on Putuoshan is most easily found in the hotel restaurants. It's worth a drink, but only for novelty value.

Nightlife:

• Port restaurants are the major nightlife venues in Putuoshan. The feasting lasts until usually at least 2am or 3am and it's common for musicians to entertain you as you eat.

Final thought:

Take good, sturdy, comfortable shoes if you plan to walk around the whole island. The walk is worth it but the blisters are not! If you're a westerner expect more staring than you'd get in Shanghai too. Be aware that ATMs can be hard to find. Try the major hotels or budget before you leave