[Radar]: Restaurant-Ecole Institut Paul Bocuse

 

Area: A quiet street in a part of Shanghai that you normally would only go to if you lived there. Institut Paul Bocuse is located in the former Rhone-Alps Pavilion in the Puxi side of the World Expo site. Tell your cabbie to drive you to the corner of Baotun Lu and Zhongshan Nan Lu. From there, follow the signs.

What it is: A culinary school under the auspices of the legendary Paul Bocuse. If you're a foodie, this name hardly needs an introduction. If you're not, he warrants an explanation. Basically, Paul Bocuse is the father of contemporary French cuisine. He's a giant on whose shoulders several of today's culinary luminaries stand. For instance, back in the '70s a young upstart chef by the name of Jean Georges Vongerichten even worked for him.

Bocuse's rise on the scene marked a paradigm shift in French and, by extension, most Western gastronomy. You've perhaps heard the term "nouvelle cuisine." That was all him. His legacy is marked by a departure from the French culinary canon in favor of more local and regional recipes. He caused a shift from tired, heavy cream and flour based sauces to lighter, brighter ones based on vinegar, lemon juice and butter. He raised the bar for freshness and quality in ingredients. He also played a key role in changing how food is presented. Every sparse plate you've seen with a morsel in the middle surrounded by sauce can, more or less, be traced back to this man. In other words, Bocuse is responsible for much of what we take for granted today in haute cuisine.

Institut Paul Bocuse's Shanghai campus is a partnership with the Shanghai Institut of Tourism. Every term, the school takes on 80 students -- 40 from France, 40 from China. The idea is to not only train students in culinary arts, wine and hotel management, but to facilitate a cultural exchange between the students. Unlike most schools though, this one functions more like a restaurant. This is a work-study program. Students are actually paid.

Now, let's get to the business end of the operation -- the actual restaurant. The menu, of course, is decidedly French -- very simple, straightforward dishes with haute cuisine staples like foie and truffles. It changes regularly. On my visit, for instance, there were entrees like foie gras-stuffed artichokes with black truffle, chestnuts and meat jus; a simple main of venison loin with potatoes, beetroot and kumquat; and a dessert of citrus jam encapsulated in a chocolate sphere served with a lashing of hot chocolate. And here is the hook: they're the students' recipes.

Atmosphere: This is a classroom. The place can't help but feel institutional, like a generic hotel restaurant. That's not to say the place lacks any charm, though. You'll just have find it in the intangibles, namely the curiosity and enthusiasm that radiates from a team of budding hospitality professionals with their careers ahead of them.

Damage: Pricing is divided up into tiers: One course for 170rmb, two for 250rmb, three for 400rmb, and four for 500rmb. On Sundays, they do a family lunch consisting of a starter, main and dessert with mineral water, coffee, tea and a cocktail for 310rmb, 210rmb for kids 10 and under.

Who's going: Curious culinary enthusiasts. Die-hard supporters of Shanghai's restaurant scene.

First impressions: Service lacks some of that professional polish you might expect at prices like these. Your hostess might not speak the best English. Your waiter might miss a beat or two. But this is a school; that's the point. Everybody here -- from the guy peeling the carrots to the guy mixing your cocktails -- is a student. Cut them some slack. They're still learning. Besides, food-wise, you could do a lot worse. Obviously, supervising teachers won't allow mistakes to come out of the kitchen. So, don't worry. You're safe.