Pure and Whole is vegan food for people who are vegan, but don't especially love food.
We dropped in for a late dinner on a weeknight, looking for something light and flavorful, and hoping to stay basically within my neighborhood. The restaurant was almost empty at 8:30pm (they close at 9).
The menu has a nice selection of choices, with appetizing names and descriptions. We ordered the pita appetizer with three spreads, (beet, mushroom, black bean) the Thai vegetable curry, and the most-recommended pistachio sauce pasta.
I don't like harping for a long time on bad food longer than I have to, so I'll jump right to the punch line: we did not enjoy our dinner at all.
The pita bread was so thin it was crackling after its roasting, basically no chewy bready texture whatsoever. The mushroom spread lacked seasoning, the black bean spread lacked seasoning, the beet spread lacked...you guessed it...seasoning. The natural sweetness of the beets kind of saved that one; the other two were just squishly texture in your mouth to spread over thin, dry pita. The purple carrots that were served with the spreads were horrible - completely without fresh flavor.
The vegetable curry tasted like it was made by someone who only knew two things about Thai curry: coconut milk and chilis. Those were the the only flavors it had, and not even those very strongly either. It was watery and bland and didn't deserve to be called "Thai". It was also served with cold, hard brown rice - clearly it was the end of the night, but how hard would it have been to steam up a single fresh serving of brown rice for us?
The pasta was also incredibly bland - it just tasted like pasta with a whisper of green vegetable flavor and no seasoning. After glumly swirling my pasta around in circles for a few minutes, I realized that the liquid of the pistachio sauce had mostly gathered on the bottom of the bowl, hidden under the pile of pasta. By dredging each bite through the liquid before eating, I was able to get a little bit of pistachio flavor, and moisture to swallow the pasta, and the flavor was actually alright. The sauce should have been creamier, to coat the pasta instead of sitting in a pool on the bottom of the plate, and it still needed more seasoning.
I get that Pure & Whole is upholding a healthy, vegan restaurant culture, but the food has to taste good too, and be prepared by a skilled chef with knowledge of how to coax great flavors out of mild ingredients. At no point in the meal did I feel I was eating food prepared with expertise and love for food.
All of the dishes were around 70+ CNY each and the total bill was 228. If I had left full and moderately satisfied, I would have called it some decent value for the Shanghai Centre. As it was, I found myself hungry and ordering dumplings on Eleme two hours later.
Pictures came out pretty nice though. I think a lot more attention was being paid in the the kitchen to presentation than taste of the food.
SmartReviews is SmartShanghai’s crack squad of amateur reviewers, eating their way around the city and writing about it. They have been chosen from a large pool of applicants and given a set of strict guidelines to follow to make sure their reviews are honest, informed and fair to both potential customers and the restaurants themselves.