The Nest is full of little challenges to liven up your visit. Choosing between all of the food and cocktail options is one – there’s a really well-varied menu, and I wanted to eat everything. Finding the toilets is another challenge. Don’t leave it too late to start your search; you don’t want to be caught short while vainly pushing against brushed metal walls, hoping one of them will open. It’s a very stylish interior, but it’s far from practical.
I was surprised by how quiet The Nest was when we visited for brunch one Sunday. It’s a large, top-floor room surrounded with a bright balcony area, and most tables were empty. There was still a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, but I don’t know why it isn’t more popular. Perhaps there’s just too much brunch competition.
We ordered a range of dishes from their set brunch menu (198rmb for any three dishes, plus a welcome drink). My surprise favourite was the heirloom tomato and burrata dish, complete with a salted tomato granita. Although I have a slight issue with the burrata label (it was more like a whipped goat’s cheese, with none of the fun parcel-opening experience you’d expect with a real burrata), it was a genuinely interesting and well-executed dish. I’d also recommend any/all of the pancakes: the Lithuanian potato for a hearty and filling option, the smoked salmon blini for elegance, or the buckwheat for a healthy carb fix.
Service was absolutely impeccable. At one point, a very minor mistake was made with our order (a dish was given to the wrong person), so we were given the same dish again plus an extra selection of desserts. Everything was prompt and professional. The “Corny Dessert” was a little disappointing and bland, but the sweet options were mostly great – particularly the “Dessert for a Queen”. The welcome drink (a riff on an espresso martini) was also lovely.
Overall, The Nest is a very strong all-rounder. Whether you need a venue for a date, a dinner party or a nice cocktail, you’re guaranteed good service and flavours for a very fair price. Let's all start going regularly so that the atmosphere picks up, too.
We visited for brunch on a bright, clear Sunday, with postcard-perfect skyline views from the terrace. Decor is muted-stylish, founded on a dusky teal and gold palette (in case you wanted to dress accordingly). Elegant.
We each had a three course brunch at 328rmb, which included a welcome drink and unlimited tea and coffee. The seasonal mulled wine and mimosa (with a mango twist) arrived promptly in M's signature glassware, followed by breads, butter and a lovely little olive tapenade (all complementary). Next, our entrees: the salmon rosti (disappointingly bland and a little greasy) and a satisfyingly rich terrine. The latter was served with delicate little Melba toasts, too, and well garnished with pickles.
This 'one good, one average' trend continued through the other two courses. My brunch pal ordered the roast turkey dinner, which was competent but unspectacular. My vegan roasted cauliflower and tahini dish, topped with a gorgeous melee of nuts, olives and pomegranate, is one of the best things I've eaten in this city. It's so good to see some of Shanghai's finest offering vegan options, particularly when they're so damn good.
The vegan dessert (pear tart with cinnamon ice cream) was less impressive: good pastry and a nice, almondy flavour, but a lacklustre ice cream and no spark. The fruit pavlova is worth your time, though: fun, fruity and photogenic.
Overall, I'd definitely recommend M on the Bund. I know it isn't perfect, but there's still some great cooking happening here. The service is impeccable, the views are Instagrammable, and the food - although not mind-blowing - is undeniably good. Take a date here for a relaxed but genteel brunch, and dress sharp.
Aside from the food, one aspect that can make or break a restaurant for me is the lighting. It isn't so important for a meal with friends or a solo dinner, but it can have a serious impact on a date. It's hard to flirt under strip-lighting; everyone looks best in candle-light.
Considering this criterion, Scarpetta is the perfect date spot. Its softly-lit interior, complete with nebulous flickering candles, is designed for romance - to the extent that the people who visit for birthday parties or to tap away on their laptops seem incongruous. I don't even know why they have large tables. Scarpetta is for couples.
We ordered a range of things to share, and we all ate far too much. To start: the roasted eggplant, a mushroom and walnut soup, venison carpaccio, fried calamari and a charcuterie board. This was mostly good (particularly the soup), with a few slightly annoying shortcomings. The calamari, for example, was a pile of deep fried vegetables with a very occasional baby octopus. I didn't have a single piece of calamari. It came with a very good aioli, though, to be fair.
We didn't try the mains, focusing instead on pasta and pizza options. Scarpetta's famous bone marrow dish was... good? I wouldn't say it was worth travelling more than a few metro stops for, but it's predictably rich and satisfying. I also enjoyed the fennel sausage pasta, the 'nduja pizza and the lobster linguine, although my friends weren't convinced by the flavour balance and spiciness of the meat dishes.
We didn't have dessert for several reasons: we were slightly underwhelmed by the mains, we'd filled up on carbs, and my friend had brought a dessert wine anyway (the management gamely allow you to BYOB, but only if you buy a bottle of theirs first). They looked good, though - as neatly presented as the other courses we tried.
In total, we paid just over 500rmb each for the meal. This is comparable to a number of other higher-end places in the city, but it seemed excessive considering we only bought one bottle of wine. Scarpetta is a good date option, doubtless, but only if you don't mind splashing out for Italian classics that don't quite sing.
There are many different types of first date. There’s the casual drink (safe, but half-hearted). There’s the elegant evening meal (more impressive, but expectation-heavy). There’s the date I went on as a teenager to Nando’s, where I cried real chilli tears because I boldly ordered the ‘extra hot’.
I want to make the case for a brunch date, though. Example venue: Brut Eatery.
Reason 1: High Chill Level
There’s a very casual vibe at Brut. I know first dates are often about making a good first impression, but you’ll look very incongruous here if you turn up in heels or a suit jacket. Kick it in trainers! Sashay over in your sweatpants! Easiest date prep ever.
Reason 2: Myriad Food Options
At Brut, you can order from the whole menu during weekend daytimes. Obviously classic brunch dishes are available (a version of a Full English; waffles; pancakes; etc) but there are also lighter or heavier options, to suit your preference. We enjoyed a healthy but satisfying quinoa-based salad bowl, the red tartine (with smoked salmon), the Cali Breakfast and the Brut Breakfast. With coffees and juices, it came to around 400rmb for four, which is pretty good. They also have a great range of cakes if you’re looking to extend the meal. If it’s not going well, though, you don’t even have to wait around awkwardly for the bill – you pay at the counter beforehand.
Reason 3: Conversational Kitchenware
Brut Eatery is part of the Shanghai Brut empire, which also includes a homewares store. They sell their adorable face mugs in the café, but there’s a much bigger range (including the signature Brut chairs) down on Anfu Lu. If you’re looking for an excuse to keep talking, it’s a nice stroll south.
There were some less impressive points about Brut: the toilet, for example, is one of the worst I’ve seen in a Western-style café. Dingy, dirty, and constantly engaged. There was also a billing problem, in that the waitress charged me TEN TIMES the bill when I paid on WeChat. It’s lucky that I checked – the mistake wasn’t picked up until I lazily scrolled through my transactions later. Pay with caution. The food arrived very sporadically, as well – one dish, then almost everything else a few minutes later, then a half hour wait for the last plate.
Overall, though, it’s a decent neighbourhood eatery with a very calm vibe.
The Yanping / Wuding area in Jing’an is packed with bars and restaurants, most of which cater to the growing expat population in the area. There are myriad options from different cultures here: juicy American burgers, refined Nordic cuisine, fresh sushi. Considering these options, I struggle to understand why Bites X Brews on Fire is always so rammed.
Look – it’s not bad. The service is probably the best thing about the place; one of the servers in particular has a great rapport with the customers. Apart from her friendly banter, though, there’s very little that stands out here. It also really depends on when you visit – the last time I went, we struggled to get served at all.
I’ve visited a couple of times: once for a light salad and drinks, and once for brunch. Both times, I was underwhelmed by the food. This weekend, for example, I had a veggie panini: brie, courgette, pea shoots, green goddess dressing. My friend ordered the pulled pork bagel. They were both served together in an awkward little wooden truckle, with only one set of cutlery. When I ordered a salad last time, it arrived ensconced in a hollowed tree stump. Call the @wewantplates police.
The food was distinctly okay. The panini and salad both lacked punch, although the bagel was pretty good. Drinks are also fine: very normal lattes, a nicely sharp homemade lemonade, and a nearly-authentic hot toddy. They also have some good happy hour deals.
It’s all just a bit messy, though. The menus are falling apart. The tables are badly organised and crowded. The deals aren’t clearly advertised.
I think that its success perhaps lies in the fact that it covers a lot of bases. Whether you’re looking for lunch or dinner, heavy or light, coffee or booze, you’re covered. It’s a real jack-of-all-trades… which leads to an obvious criticism about mastery, and a very average three-star review.
Angelina opened its first Shanghai branch more than 100 years since its establishment in Paris. A lot has changed since 1903. Now, for example, it’s possible to create pastries in Paris, deep-freeze them and fly them over to Shanghai. It’s also perfectly possible to order additional coffee, milk or hot chocolate to be delivered within the hour if you run out. The management at Angelina have apparently grasped one of these concepts, but not the other.
We visited on a Saturday afternoon, anticipating Angelina’s hyped hot chocolate. We ordered a pedestrian drinks selection: coffee, hot chocolate, tea, and milkshake, plus a ubiquitous pastry. This shouldn’t have been difficult for a cafe specialising in coffee, hot chocolate, tea, milkshake and pastry.
Angelina had not only run out of hot chocolate. They had also run out of the necessary ingredients to make lattes and mochas. Iced lattes were possible (implying a lazy pre-mix rather than actual espresso and milk), but they only had one glass left, so we were given plastic cups for all of the other drinks. They’d also run out of chinaware, so the hot water they offered instead of a mocha (decadent) came in a lidless and soulless cardboard take-out cup.
They did manage to serve us a banana milkshake (in a plastic cup more suited to a festival than a fancy French patisserie) and a very neat little cake: L’Africain. Unfortunately, these did not improve our impressions of the place. The cake was still frozen in the middle, and was so hard that we had to saw into it with a blunt pastry knife – less than elegant. The flavour was distinctly okay, and the milkshake was watery and bland.
We ended up paying 339rmb for some flavourless “cocoa” tea, a couple of average iced lattes, two waters at varying temperatures, a banana-less milkshake and a thoroughly disappointing cake. Angelina charge ridiculous prices for lacklustre service, flavourless drinks and all the tiled atmosphere of a metro station platform. There are plenty of better places to get your hot chocolate fix in Shanghai.
Shake is largely well-known for two things: its live music and its cocktail menu. The (frustratingly) small dance floor is always (frustratingly) crowded, but the house band and/or special guests always make up for it. Shake’s food offering, though, is passed over by most patrons. To me, it seemed a superfluous addition to a very competent bar. I gamely gave it a go, though, for the good of the SmSh readers.
The menu is a little confused, in every sense. There are myriad small plates and sides (tautological) on offer, with no real cohesion. The food is broadly Asian-influenced: roasted chicken in a sticky, kaffir-lime-infused sauce; crispy wings with a tang of fish sauce and chilli; a steamed soybean meat pie on rice, topped with a poached egg; lightly-seared tuna tataki. There’s a South American selection, too: pulled pork crispy tacos, for example, and a light, ceviche-like salad. (I refuse to actually call it a ceviche because it wasn’t half limey enough.) “Disco” fries come loaded with various meaty toppings, including a teriyaki tongue option.
Really - it almost all tasted good (with the possible exception of the rather pungent steamed soybean meat pie, which divided the group). The crispy pork tacos were a highlight and, although some of my friends weren’t so enchanted, I thought the wings were great. The fish seemed a little under-seasoned, but that’s probably only because it was casually served alongside heavy red meats in heavy red sauces.
My main issue here is that it’s all quite unbalanced. If you’re going to serve a menu of small plates for pre-dance mixing and matching, they should all complement each other. At Shake, the flavours were a little too dissonant. Teriyaki beef tongue fries thudding down next to a light and subtle tuna tataki? Not my kind of party. Also, the beers start at 60rmb and you can’t find many drinks under 80 kuai, which pulls up the price considerably.
I’d recommend the disco fries or the wings for a little preshow bite. I wouldn’t visit again for dinner, though.
Last week, I was trying to define the word “devoted” to my class of 11-year-olds. “Can you give us an example?”, one boy asked.
“Sure”, I said, and then – instinctively, without thinking – “I’m devoted to pizza.”
I am, though. I’ve tried “proper” pizza in various Italian towns and cities; I’ve experimented with making different bases at home; I’ve had takeaways in every style, from sourdough to stuffed crust. Devoted.
Sofia, deservingly, has a good reputation in Shanghai. The little Jing’an branch is dangerously close to my apartment. After a few visits, I feel well-qualified to recommend it. It won’t make anyone’s deep pan dreams come true, but if you’re a fan of thin-crust, char-edged pizzas, it’s a really good option.
I visited most recently on a Sunday night, after a long and boozy weekend away. We ordered one Hawaiian (sorry not sorry, pineapple haters), one veggie pizza and some hummus, plus some mint tea to make it all feel more wholesome.
The pizzas were just right: plenty of good toppings, gooey cheese, charred and bubbling in all the right places. They’re a really good size for a single portion as well, but you can always take any leftovers home. The hummus was also really good: plenty of olive oil to add a light richness. It also tasted like they’d used actual tahini – no corner-cutting with Chinese-style toasted sesame paste. The falafel salad, baba ghanoush (available as part of a mixed starter, which is well worth your time) and kebabs are also strong options.
Sure, it isn’t perfect. They don’t have a toilet (you have to go next door), and there’s nothing exciting or ground-breaking here. For a little local pizza spot, though, it’s perfect. Friendly staff, chilled-out atmosphere, good playlist, quick service, fridge full of beer and – vitally – good food.
We visited Co. Cheese Melt’s southerly concession (at The Hop Project on Dagu Lu) on a stunning, autumnal Sunday afternoon. I’d been to spin class that morning and I felt like the world of food was open to me. When you’ve spent 45 minutes in a dark room, sweating out half of your total body weight in front of an instructor who carries more muscle mass than the entire male cast of Love Island, you can eat whatever you damn well want to. That’s the rule.
When my friend suggested a grilled cheese, it was a hard yes from me. All it took was a single picture of a tuna melt and I was sold. We got the bus down to Dagu Lu, took a table outside, and perused the endlessly tempting menu. I actually used a random number generator to select my sandwich because they all sounded so great.
I ended up ordering a full-English-breakfast-style grilled cheese, featuring baked beans, egg, bacon and… well, cheese, obviously. My friend had a Mexican melee of avocado, refried beans and chorizo (plus the ubiquitous cheese). They were both a total delight. I’m not sure there are many greater pleasures in life than sitting in the sunshine and biting into a perfectly crispy, gooey-centred toasted cheese sandwich. The Mexican-style one was the definite favourite of the two, but both were good.
There were a couple of minor issues here. For example, we were automatically given the large sandwich without asking or being asked. I’m not complaining exactly, but it did mean that we unintentionally spent and ate more than we meant to. The price is another slightly contentious point: we paid 220rmb for two grilled cheeses, two sparkling waters and a coffee. That’s pretty high considering we didn’t even have any alcohol, but you can bring the cost down if you visit on Mondays – you get a free house beer with every sandwich. It’s also a shame that the little creek outside is so smelly. Don’t sit on the tables closest to the pavement.
Regardless, it was still a great lunch. I’d go back to try some of the other options, but I’d definitely ask for the small. I’d also take my own ketchup – despite the massive selection of hot sauces, as well as a few other condiments, they inexplicably didn’t have any of the red stuff.
In a city like Shanghai, it’s sometimes hard to prioritise. Food is everywhere, the options are endless, and there’s always someone raving about their new favourite brunch / hotpot / cocktail. I know. I get it. I’m not trying to add to the pressure with this review. I’m just saying – Lotus Eatery is the best meal I’ve had in Shanghai so far on many counts, and you should definitely make the time to visit.
Lotus Eatery (not to be confused with the Tianzifang Lotus Land, the veggie-focused Lotus, or any of the other seven million restaurants in Shanghai beginning with the same word) is on a street packed with the type of places you walk past and think “ooh, I want to try that one”. It’s a short amble through the park from Yan’an West or a slightly longer stroll from Zhongshan Park station. I’m including these details about walking as a hint. I couldn’t stop eating at Lotus Eatery. I wish I’d walked further during the day to offset the calorie guilt.
There’s a nice little fountain in the entrance, from which you ascend to a very well-laid-out room. It’s quite a big place, but it feels cosy: there are plenty of alcoves, cubbies and well-placed screens to separate groups. When I visited, there were a surprising number of groups with the same demographic: person (or couple) in their twenties, plus person (or couple) in their 50s. By the end of the meal, this made sense: Lotus Eatery is definitely the sort of place you want to bring your parents.
We ordered absolutely piles of food between four of us, and I’m so glad we did. The food arrives as soon as it’s ready. The first round – beef with cumin, okra, lotus root, runner beans – silenced the table. It takes a lot to knock the politeness out of a group of Brits and Canadians, but not a single person bothered to ask if anyone minded them finishing the last of the lotus root. We were all too busy eating.
The second round arrived. The wild mountain vegetable pancake was excellent, as was the rice cake with egg and pickled vegetable, the deep fried, sugar-coated Dali goats’ cheese and (ungghhhh…) the standout pan-fried Dali goats’ cheese.
This might seem like a lot of food for four people. It was. We still ordered another round, though, because we wanted some outstanding drinking snacks to accompany our massive pitchers of beer. Due to this, I can confirm that the sautéed beef and potato is also really great, which was not a surprise at all. We got some more runner beans, too. Somebody had finished all of the first plate without asking. (It was me.)
With the sheer volume of great food (and beer) we ordered, I expected a huge bill. For all four of us, the total only just sneaked over 500rmb. Incredible value for inimitable, uncriticisable food. The service was great, too, although nobody really noticed. I intend to use every excuse I can generate to go back again. My birthday. The long weekend. Thursday. Who cares. I need another goats’ cheese fix.
It’s not hard to find healthy vegetarian and vegan food in Shanghai. It’s just that there aren’t many restaurants which include options as a matter of course. After a few months of minor frustrations at entirely carnivorous group brunches and dinners, and far too many bowls of Jen Dow's signature veggie noodles (good but salty), a meal at Gwen’s was a happy soul food antidote.
The little cafe on Yanqing is stylish but small. There’s only really one proper table (a big one, but still) plus some stools at the bar. I liked the bar seats – they provided a great view of our food being microwaved, scooped and biodegradably-packaged.
I also liked the menu. Everything looks good: fresh and colourful cooking. I went for the biang biang tempeh rice (38rmb), which carried a satisfying garlic hit. Would recommend. Annoyingly, a few of the options were unavailable when we visited, but we also tried the New Orleans spicy tomato sauce with avocado and egg (48rmb, hearty) and the steamed bun special, which was well-packed and filling.
Service is quick and efficient, and the food was exactly the healthy hit I was looking for. I was surprised at how much microwaving was happening, although this isn’t necessarily a bad thing – the flavour and texture of everything we ate was still good. I’ll be returning to try the drinks and the other food options, especially after a heavy food weekend.
Before you arrive at Comma, plan your outfit carefully. I'm not saying that you have to dress formally - this isn't Michelin-starred fine dining - but the place is so rigid in its clean, minimalist lines and monochromatic colour palette that you'll feel out of place if you wear anything flamboyant. Or even if your shoelace is untied. I honestly felt like the staff relaxed a little when we stood up to leave so that they could tidy up our booth.
I visited while Comma were serving a set of 'brunch sets'. I've no idea what defined these as 'brunch' instead of just 'sets'; everything seemed pretty lunch-y to me. Maybe I just struggle to associate brunch with anything that doesn't incorporate avocado and bottomless Bloody Marys, though.
There are five brunch options: veggie (68rmb), omelette (78rmb), mini pancakes (88rmb), chicken (98rmb) and salmon (108rmb). I get it. I get the incremental 10rmb price increases, as neat as the restaurant itself. What I don't get is why you would charge 88rmb for some mini pancakes (served with bacon, egg, pickles, salad and fruit), or 108rmb for what is essentially a bit of salmon and some rice. The pricing seemed a bit off, and drinks (apart from tea) aren't included - they'll cost you anything from 25rmb upwards. We went for some mocktails which were around 40-45rmb each. They were surprisingly good - mine was perfectly balanced between fiery ginger and sweetness - but, again, over-priced.
When the food arrived, it was plated as fastidiously as you'd expect considering the decor. Two of us went for the veggie set and the other two ordered the chicken. There was plenty of tasty stuff here. The chicken was crispily fried to perfection, and came with a fairly average potato salad, miso soup and a shredded slaw with the ubiquitous Kewpie (probably) roasted sesame dressing. I was really happy with my veggie choice, though. It came with an okonomiyaki (loose texture but great flavour), and an excellent fried tofu miso soup. Both sets also included some little pickled peppers, a salad (cucumber, mushrooms, okra) and some aggressively bitter cubes of melon.
In all, I enjoyed my veggie set a lot. It was just the right amount of food and the range of textures worked well. The other options were, in my opinion, over-priced, and there was nothing mind-blowing about my meal here. I wouldn't say it's worth travelling for, but Comma is a good place to go if you're in the area and craving okonomiyaki.
They’re really very good at brunch at Bull and Claw. At one point, searching for problems to show that I was a very discerning reviewer, I turned to the person next to me and asked if perhaps there was a bit too much bacon on his lobster benedict. Of all the ways to criticise a brunch, this is surely one of the best. It’s up there with “they’ve put an extra shot in my Bloody Mary, the scamps” and “oh no, we have a whole hour of free-flow mimosas left”.
To start with, the venue is lovely. It’s the sort of space in which your hangover gently evaporates. We sat outside under strings of bulbs, leafy branches and a clear Shanghai sky. Service was quick and efficient. All very relaxing.
The brunch menu is consistently tempting; I couldn't see an option I didn't want to eat. We went for the three-course option – a slightly misleading moniker considering that one of the “courses” is just a drink. At 188rmb, though, it’s still good value for what you get.
I ordered the Turkish menemen as a savoury option, which turned out to be a great choice. The sharp, yoghurt sauce was a particularly nice touch. The eggs were a little overcooked, but the sauce was full of flavour – plenty of richness with occasional fennel seed bursts. It was so nice to finally see a strong veggie brunch option in Shanghai that wasn't just avocado on toast, too (although they also serve their own version at B&C if that's what you fancy, because of course they do).
The bubble and squeak was also hearty and satisfying, despite the rather perplexing and incongruous sheet of fried beef on top, and the little shitake and feta fritters went down very well. When the abovementioned lobster benedict arrived (an extra 98rmb), it was a source of intense food envy around the table: muffins piled with lobster, bacon, eggs and a particularly buttery, rich hollandaise. I stand by my bacon comment above (it overpowered the lobster!), but it’s a good option if you feel like a decadent splurge.
And then the sweet courses arrived. There was a brief silence and then, from my friend with the maple and honeycomb waffles: “Jesus Christ”. It doesn’t really matter which option you order: the pancakes, waffles and French toast all looked and tasted equally good. I know that some diners will feel like they should go for the fruit bowl after their savoury dishes, but seriously – just give in to the carbs. This brunch is worth the treadmill time. I did think my French toast was slightly dry – a longer egg soak needed, maybe? – and I was surprised that the banana was raw rather than caramelised. The crunchy chocolate-peanut topping made up for this, though.
On the drinks front, I had the cucumber and apple juice, which was exactly what I’d been craving: light and refreshing. There are alcoholic options as well, though, and you can add free-flow drinks if that’s your morning vibe. The cocktails looked great.
In all, it was a very comfortable brunch. Bull and Claw is a safe bet for any occasion. Nothing mind-blowing, but more than dependable.
Yannick Alléno and his team are clearly very proud of their Shanghai Bistro. I know this because they've displayed their faces in every possible location. Yannick smiles winningly from the front page of the menu. The walls in our private room were graced not with prints of fine art or Loire landscapes, but with portraits of two of the chefs, who gaze directly into your eyes as you sip your Bordeaux. The steak tartare is quinelled by a suited assistant, right at your table. Confidence exemplified.
Combined with the high price point and Alléno's constellation of Michelin stars, this raised my expectations of the food considerably. The service was also exemplary: the sort of relaxed attentiveness that immediately puts you at ease. As a party of seven, including two teenagers, we were given our own private room. The view over the central courtyard of the Raffles complex was a lovely backdrop. Unfortunately, the hollow acoustics were not so lovely. The playlist was good (Maggie Rogers, Christine and the Queens) but we barely heard it over the echoes of our own conversation.
Auxiliary details are pretty immaterial compared to the food, though. So: the menu. It’s a good size, but there are some issues. For example, I try to eat vegan or vegetarian as much as possible. I'm terrible at sticking to it beyond my own kitchen, but I do try, honestly. There wasn’t a single vegan or vegetarian option on the main course menu. Not even a lone-ranging ratatouille. If you’re swerving meat and fish, you’re stuck with a couple of entrée options or a selection of sides. This is pretty poor.
To start, we shared a few plates. There are some standout dishes here. The brie stuffed with black truffle and mascarpone (130rmb) is one of the best cheeses I've had: a decadent, oozing wedge in dramatic monochrome. We also ordered a charcuterie platter (168rmb) with some excellent features: a light terrine, beautifully cured meats and some cute little sweet-pickled vegetables. There were several underwhelming elements, though. The escargot (78rmb) were served à la Masterchef (roughly translated as “with superfluous and tasteless foam”) and lacked the classic, garlicky punch. The shrimps with homemade mayonnaise (78rmb) were also disappointing. I assume that the lack of seasoning was intended to allow the shrimps to shine, but the result was a light but bland, hotel-restaurant-level entrée.
The mains were similarly hit-and-miss. I ordered the scallop, seafood and caviar with champagne sabayon and lobster pilaf rice (198rmb). The sabayon was satisfyingly buttery and rich, surrounding a perfectly tender scallop. Great cooking. The rice, however, seemed like an afterthought: it somehow managed to be both dry and oily, and carried neither flavour nor evidence of lobster. Others on the table ordered the whole roast chicken (160rmb; tasty roasted garlic, but otherwise unremarkable), sea bass (158rmb; lovely, light, olive-y sauce with just the right proportion of capers), steak tartare (198rmb; "beautiful", as reviewed by my actually-French friend) and – at the teenage end of the table – “L’Hambourgeois” (135rmb), which I wished I’d ordered.
I’d highly recommend getting some of the French fries (28rmb) on the side of whatever you order, regardless of their incongruity. I’d probably go back just for half an hour with some frites, a good book, and a large glass of anything from the excellent wine selection.
It’s hard to come to an overall verdict on Bistro by Yannick Alléno. There was some strong cooking and I enjoyed the evening, but there were also several disappointments. For such a well-decorated chef (and such a chef-decorated venue), I’d expected greater attention to detail and much more flavour. I think the fairest way to judge this place is by its name: it’s very much a “bistro” rather than a Michelin-contending restaurant. It has the obligatory paper placemats, carnivorous menu and excellent fries. It is certainly not priced as a bistro, however, and that’s what annoyed me. We paid about 500rmb each for a starter and main, plus a couple of drinks. Charging restaurant prices for bistro food is only acceptable if your food is impeccable. Here, it isn’t really worth the price tag.
According to the terms of the Chinese visa, foreign citizens must register with their local Liquid Laundry within 60 days of entry. If you don't - where else are you going for brunch? Is it good? Can I come?
Having visited for the first time this weekend, I can see why Liquid Laundry is such a perennially popular choice, especially among Shanghai's avocado-loving expats. It's inarguably good-looking, dependable food (once you get past the subtle entrance lifts). My food envy wasn't even limited to my own table: the florally-embellished Salade Niçoise opposite me looked just as good as the breakfast pizza at the window table, or the caramelised banana pancakes to my right. I'm still thinking about the lovely, chubby breakfast burrito, and I didn't even eat it myself.
Luckily, when my food arrived, it was just as aesthetically delicious. I ordered the "Green Eggs and Ham" (98rmb), just like two other people in our party and probably a good 20% of the other patrons. The menu doesn't oversell it, either: the two perfectly poached eggs were nestled in a mass of greens, salty bacon (which they try to pass off as fancy ham) and dense, seeded rye bread, with a ubiquitous sliced avocado topping. Effortless Instagram glory. It was a good choice. To be fair, though, everyone else made good choices too. My friend's pancakes were satisfyingly fluffy (and huge in diameter, too); the abovementioned Niçoise featured fresh, barely-seared tuna and purple potatoes amongst the edible flowers. There are also some veggie options, although I'd love to see more strong vegan offerings.
The drink selection is less exciting than the menu. Liquid Laundry hasn't really embellished (or replaced) its standard evening bar offering with brunch-appropriate choices. There are no surprises: alongside the classic Bloody Mary, there’s a small selection of other cocktails, as well as tea, coffee, wine, beer, etc. A 75cl bottle of mineral water is a fairly extortionate 65rmb, so you might as well have a proper drink with your avocado toast.
There were a few little niggles here: the bread and ham were a bit hard, the service could have been quicker, and my "Disco Fruit Tea" wasn't even sparkly. No matter how many restaurants move towards the “you receive your food whenever it’s ready, regardless of the fact that we haven’t started whisking your friend’s Hollandaise yet” model of service, it still never fails to annoy me. I'd also say that paying 133rmb for one brunch dish and a tea is a bit steep in a city that routinely sells great 10 kuai noodles. There are some cheaper options (a bagel plus topping is 25rmb), but most dishes are 75-110rmb. These are minor quibbles considering the effortless atmosphere and strong menu, though. If you haven't already been, check it out. It's an essential part of the visa application. Or at least, it might as well be.
When I visited on a Sunday evening, the place was slightly too quiet. Combined with the tiled surfaces and overly bright lighting, this made the atmosphere a little clinical. There's definitely a dimmer switch, though, because the manager turned the lights down right before we left. Pre-learn the Mandarin for "this room has the mood-killing lustre of an office bathroom" if you're going for a date.
Despite the lack of ambience, we were won over by the food - it's definitely worth a visit if you're around Jing'an. Everything is fresh, authentic and well-priced. We ordered a vermicelli noodle bowl with lemongrass chicken, pho with brisket and beef balls, a shockingly purple dragonfruit and banana juice, and a ginger lemon tea. The noodle bowl was the standout dish; the clean, light flavours were exactly what I needed after a heavy Shanghai weekend. Coriander and crunchy vegetables offset the savoury, spiced chicken well. The pho was also good, with its rich, slowly-simmered broth as a flavour base. There are a few different options available, including some with tripe, if that's what you're into.
In total, we spent just under 150rmb. Not as cheap as the local noodle stands, perhaps, but it's a good deal for quality Vietnamese food, and it's definitely healthier than a lot of the other options in the vicinity. Service is perfectly efficient and friendly, and the relaxed seating means that it's as good for large groups as it is for couples or solo diners.
It's worth noting that there aren't many vegetarian options here. If you're looking for standout veggie or vegan noodles, there are a few better options around West Beijing Road. Even if you don't eat meat, though, it's worth stopping by to try some of the drinks on offer. There's a whole range of Vietnamese options, as well as some satisfyingly lurid juices and the ubiquitous canned beers. I plan to go back one morning to try the Vietnamese coffee, made with sweetened condensed milk.
This area isn't exactly lacking in coffee shops, granted, but Pho Store provides another variation if you're tired of your normal flat white / ristretto / salted cream cheese iced latté. I’m not sure if Pho Store is quite worth the full four stars I’ve given it here, but it definitely deserves more than three. It’s a great lunch option, the service was quietly competent, and the healthy flavours were exactly what I was looking for.
SmartReviews is SmartShanghai’s crack squad of amateur reviewers, eating their way around the city and writing about it. They have been chosen from a large pool of applicants and given a set of strict guidelines to follow to make sure their reviews are honest, informed and fair to both potential customers and the restaurants themselves.