They’re really very good at brunch at Bull and Claw. At one point, searching for problems to show that I was a very discerning reviewer, I turned to the person next to me and asked if perhaps there was a bit too much bacon on his lobster benedict. Of all the ways to criticise a brunch, this is surely one of the best. It’s up there with “they’ve put an extra shot in my Bloody Mary, the scamps” and “oh no, we have a whole hour of free-flow mimosas left”.
To start with, the venue is lovely. It’s the sort of space in which your hangover gently evaporates. We sat outside under strings of bulbs, leafy branches and a clear Shanghai sky. Service was quick and efficient. All very relaxing.
The brunch menu is consistently tempting; I couldn't see an option I didn't want to eat. We went for the three-course option – a slightly misleading moniker considering that one of the “courses” is just a drink. At 188rmb, though, it’s still good value for what you get.
I ordered the Turkish menemen as a savoury option, which turned out to be a great choice. The sharp, yoghurt sauce was a particularly nice touch. The eggs were a little overcooked, but the sauce was full of flavour – plenty of richness with occasional fennel seed bursts. It was so nice to finally see a strong veggie brunch option in Shanghai that wasn't just avocado on toast, too (although they also serve their own version at B&C if that's what you fancy, because of course they do).
The bubble and squeak was also hearty and satisfying, despite the rather perplexing and incongruous sheet of fried beef on top, and the little shitake and feta fritters went down very well. When the abovementioned lobster benedict arrived (an extra 98rmb), it was a source of intense food envy around the table: muffins piled with lobster, bacon, eggs and a particularly buttery, rich hollandaise. I stand by my bacon comment above (it overpowered the lobster!), but it’s a good option if you feel like a decadent splurge.
And then the sweet courses arrived. There was a brief silence and then, from my friend with the maple and honeycomb waffles: “Jesus Christ”. It doesn’t really matter which option you order: the pancakes, waffles and French toast all looked and tasted equally good. I know that some diners will feel like they should go for the fruit bowl after their savoury dishes, but seriously – just give in to the carbs. This brunch is worth the treadmill time. I did think my French toast was slightly dry – a longer egg soak needed, maybe? – and I was surprised that the banana was raw rather than caramelised. The crunchy chocolate-peanut topping made up for this, though.
On the drinks front, I had the cucumber and apple juice, which was exactly what I’d been craving: light and refreshing. There are alcoholic options as well, though, and you can add free-flow drinks if that’s your morning vibe. The cocktails looked great.
In all, it was a very comfortable brunch. Bull and Claw is a safe bet for any occasion. Nothing mind-blowing, but more than dependable.
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