The Middle House is maybe the darkest five-star hotel I've been to, which matches their identity of "A calm oasis amongst the dynamic backdrop of Asia's most sophisticated city." I like it. The 4th floor rooftop makes for good sunset watching and Café Grey seems like an ideal place to get over jet lag. Their flagship Italian restaurant is equally modern and relaxing, though some dishes need work.
A dark restaurant feels great in this world of neon Instagram-bait. And lounge music mixtapes sound surprisingly good in the era of playlists and algorithms. Great service too. One customer who some might call "severely underdressed" still got constant water pours, bread top-ups, and smiles.
Everything here tastes homemade. Sometimes that's a huge compliment and sometimes not. A wood-grilled chicken salad makes one wonder what kind of magic they can do with steaks. The truffle mashed potatoes are dreams. And though a pesto pasta tasted truly fresh, two diners agreed: just slightly undercooked. Finally, a bizarre disappointment: a broccoli leaf and sausage pizza. Oily with a taste of refrigerated leftovers, it tasted like Chinese New Year. Is that basic-American ignorance to think that an Italian restaurant should have good pizza?
Should have ended with a tiramisu, an espresso, and maybe a slice from Homeslice instead. Still, would go back to explore other parts of the menu and enjoy the vibe and service.
Summary: Sharp, relaxing Italian restaurant in The Middle House hotel with great service and vibe, some standout dishes and some misses. Go for the wood-grilled options and side dishes. Good value.
Price: ~ 240rmb per person with one glass of wine.
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