» Tue Jan 29th 2008 , JacobAldaco
I had decided to take my roommate out to dinner for her birthday, and as a special request she choose french as her choice for the evening. So the day before, I spent several hours looking at almost every reputable french restaurant in town. It may simply be French food snobbery or something, but almost every restaurant I looked at had a noticeable amount of BAD REVIEWS, including this one. Knowing full well, that people tend to be more picky with french food than with other culinary styles, I decided to start weeding restaurants out by weighing both what good and bad was said about it. (Actually, the only french restaurant that I recall only have good reviews was Le Bouchon. I however, wanted something a little more than casual dining to give to my friend).
I checked out Sens&Bund, Jean Georges, XSensation, Cafe Montmarte, T8 (which isn't exactly french, but more european continental fusion), HFZ, Des Lys, Club Shanghai, Saleya, Hugo, and Allure. Jean Georges and Sens&Bund were eliminated immediately after reading specific foul ups on certain food preps... of which I was NOT willing to spend that amount of money on a potentially overcooked fish, as I have also heard from friends who've gone. XSensation seemed like a likely candidate, but it is in Pudong, and Im not sure my roomie wanted to head out there. I narrowed it down to Club Shanghai and Hamilton House. Couldn't find a menu for Club Shanghai, so I went with Hamilton House.
Our reservation was made for 9:40 p.m. We were informed that the kitchen would stop taking orders at 10p.m. (we said that was fine) and that they only took cash (which i understood from certain reviews). Unfortunately our taxi driver misunderstood my directions (which is thoroughly understandable, considering my putonghua is rubbish at this point :-) and so we got there late. Needless to say, the Hostess recognized my reservation name, greeted us very warmly and expressed and actual gratitude at our eventual arrival, despite our lateness.
The restaurant layout is unique but not striking. However the decor was a subdued modern chic, very clean and thus comfortable. Overall, however, I would say the environment was impressive, and added positively to the experience.
The service was efficient, attentive, and well balanced. However, our coats were not offered to be taken (but in the whole scheme of things, I am not bothered much by this, and may simply have been a slight oversight). Our waiter was knowledgeable and accommodating. This restaurant may be in the upper echelon where customer's do not customarily ask to take food home, however being someone who detests the idea of food being thrown away, I asked for my leftovers to be prepared to be taken home. I was informed that they didn't have any bags or boxes, etc. but the waiter said he would see what he could do. A few moments later, my food came back to me wrapped in tin foil, shaped like a handbag. I thought this was exceedingly considerate, and somewhat humorous.
The food. First off, I'll say something about the menu. It is simple, to the point, and offers a decent variety. I'm not entirely sure which region of france this faire comes from, because it did not seem Parisienne, and there were no Mediterranean flavors. So I would assume the selection comes either from the central loire valley or the northern Breton provinces. Another reviewer ranted and raved about "new creations" and such, I however would be so quick to brand this food as inauthentic. It seemed genuine, the ingredients were familiar to me (in my family is a french and basque restaurant back in the states). Sorry, now on to the food...
For entrees, I had the Poached Egg and my roommate the Bleu Cheese Gnocchi. The poached egg was very unique, but delicious. I am not a fan of fatty meats, but it was undoubtedly those select portions of the ham that contributed to the overall flavor of the entree. The shallots were deliciously caramelized, and the red wine butter made the whole quite nice. I ate everything except for a few pieces of fat from the pork stomach. My roommates Gnocchi was very delicate, with subtle flavors (even in the bleu cheese). Some may call it bland, but I recognized it to be a more subtle dish and appreciated it.
Main course, I had the veal cutlets and she the Turbot. I personally, have not had much experience with this fish, however I can say that the preparation was done competently as it tasted .... good. I'm sorry to say, that I can't describe it better, but I've never had this fish before (and Im a seafood buff). I can say positively however that it was cooked properly, had ample flavor, and was complimented by the sauce. The veal was perfectly tendre, and wonderfully savory. The kidney and potatoe boulangere was very flavorful and a good compliment to the meat.
Desert. At this point, both she and I have way too much food inside of us to stomach individual deserts, so we decided to split the bitter dark chocolate (flourless cake?) with whiskey ice cream. I would have rather tried the brandied pear tarte (or whatever, i can't exactly remember the name), but it was of course lady's discretion. HOWEVER, the bitter chocolate (thing) turned out much nicer when you pair it with the ORANGE Muscat. They made a perfect combination.
Presentation of food was above average at this place and probably won't be beaten by most restaurants of this calibre (with the exception of the more nouvelle sophisticated Sens and JG).
Overall: I would say this is an outstanding establishment, ESPECIALLY considering it has only be open for a mere two months. The service was appropriate, the food was quite palatable (enjoyable even), the portions are perfect (not scant like nouvelle cuisine), the prices allow this place to be frequented...frequently..., ambiance semi-professional/impress a date, and accommodations made were noteworthy. The owner was present welcoming and personally tending to guests, which was respectable.
I would recommend this restaurant, and will be returning.