Eduardo Vargas is Ambitious: Part Three, The New Azul
By Christopher St Cavish, Sep 7th, 2009 | In Nightlife
Azul had a makeover last month, on its way to becoming the new Azul, a modern Peruvian restaurant.
Decor is done, a chef is on his way over from Lima, and the Spanish stuff on the menu is about to be jettisoned. In its place: a ceviche bar, anticuchos (skewers of grilled meat, marinated in various chile pastes), tiraditos, and, I'll bet, a container-load of pisco.
Modern Peruvian might sound a little myopic or made-up, like, I don't know, historical Norwegian or molecular Australian cuisine, but it's not. When it's done right, it's a brilliant, vibrant cuisine with the tropical influences of the coast, and the heartier stews of the Andes. And a lot of potatoes.
Have a look at this website. It's the online version of the Art of Peruvian Cuisine by Tony Custer, an exquisitely photographed and researched cookbook that put Peruvian cuisine on the map (for people not from Peru). I've got two copies of the book. I'm hoping Vargas is secretly using it for reference.
Don't know what's happening to Azul's popular brunch just yet. I'll find out when Vargas calls me back to tell me about the fourth place. I think it's in Taikang Lu.
Decor is done, a chef is on his way over from Lima, and the Spanish stuff on the menu is about to be jettisoned. In its place: a ceviche bar, anticuchos (skewers of grilled meat, marinated in various chile pastes), tiraditos, and, I'll bet, a container-load of pisco.
Modern Peruvian might sound a little myopic or made-up, like, I don't know, historical Norwegian or molecular Australian cuisine, but it's not. When it's done right, it's a brilliant, vibrant cuisine with the tropical influences of the coast, and the heartier stews of the Andes. And a lot of potatoes.
Have a look at this website. It's the online version of the Art of Peruvian Cuisine by Tony Custer, an exquisitely photographed and researched cookbook that put Peruvian cuisine on the map (for people not from Peru). I've got two copies of the book. I'm hoping Vargas is secretly using it for reference.
Don't know what's happening to Azul's popular brunch just yet. I'll find out when Vargas calls me back to tell me about the fourth place. I think it's in Taikang Lu.
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