I barely noticed Daliah transitioning into Jin Hua, and I practically live next door. In my defence, though, nothing has changed except the menu. They still have Daliah-branded comedy napkins, swings for seats, and a slide between floors. Fans of novelty dining experiences: you can still get your fix here.

The menu has been slowly expanding since their opening, and there’s some really good stuff here – if you’re the type of person who digs cocktails named after menstruation (up top for taboo-busting!), anyway. The branding is bold. The drinks are loud. The atmosphere is… getting there.

We ordered a ridiculous array of food, although some of the menu wasn’t available. Highly rated: a mint salad with fermented beans that I still occasionally think fondly about, three days later (28rmb); the stir fried chicken and crispy-chewy rice cakes (68rmb); the mixed mushrooms in an umami glaze (68rmb). Good but forgettable: crispy, deep-fried red beans with chillies (28rmb); mildly-spiced “street fries” (25rmb); the half BBQ chicken with lemongrass and a dry chilli dip (58rmb).

The reason this place only gets a three, though, is its competition. Lotus Eatery also serves Yunnan food. It’s less heavily-branded but it’s cheaper and, vitally, it does signature dishes much better. Enter Jin Hua’s fried goat’s cheese (36rmb). Although I enjoyed the fragrant rose jam, it just didn’t match up to Lotus’. I’d same the same for the mashed potatoes (28rmb) and the fried lotus roots (32rmb).

There are some desserts on offer, too. We tried the coconut bubble drink with fried bread (35rmb), which was a refreshing and satisfying end to the meal. In all, we paid 812rmb for four people, including drinks.

Jin Hua is a vibrant space with decent food and quirky drinks. It feels like you’re paying a little over the odds for the branding, though. It isn’t Lotus Eatery-level, but it’s a good option in the Jing’an area.

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