Wolfgang Puck’s first Spago in China -- California fine dining with hotel polish, some smart nods to Chinese ingredients, and a Bund view priced into every glass of wine. They've got some of the same dishes that made the original in Beverly Hills famous: spicy tuna tartare in sesame-miso cones (168rmb), a smoked salmon pizza with a layer of salmon and a few heroic scoops of ikura (288rmb), and a 338rmb wienerschnitzel (gasp). There are also Shanghai-specific dishes from executive chef Luke Omarzu: hummus with Xinjiang cumin lamb and scallion bing (138rmb), a mushroom soup with lily bulb and bone marrow flan (138rmb), a lobster and hairy crab roe butter risotto (398rmb). Mains stay in hotel territory, built around large, confident hunks of meat and seafood: miso black cod sitting on yet more ikura (318rmb), roasted chicken with goat cheese and Yunnan mushrooms (278rmb), an Iberico pork chop with maple brine (388rmb), and an Australian Wagyu côte de boeuf for two (1848rmb) aimed squarely at the person with a corporate card.