Rambu is the new one from Jun Nishiyama of Sage Bistro, channeling his Japanese-Singaporean background and fine-dining past into a Southeast Asian menu where he’s clearly allowing himself some mischief. Starters are where that shows first: ox-tongue nam tok (82rmb); an oxtail rendang doughnut with kecap manis and Guinness glaze (68rmb); and flatbread with buah keluak, rempeh butter, and mussels (88rmb). Mains go a bit straighter: ayam penyet with turmeric aioli and pineapple sambal (108rmb), flank steak with nam jim (208rmb), and a whole trout with sambal butter (238rmb). Desserts stay in the same sandbox -- Thai tea crème caramel (58rmb), ginger ma lai gao (42rmb). Mid-sized Wuding Lu space, around three dozen seats.