1221, the first stop in Shanghai for Lonely Planet, TripAdvisor and others who would lead you astray, has closed after 23 years of serving aggressively average Shanghainese food. And I'm a big champion of Shanghainese food. I took a table of old China hands to the place in 2018 and we left kind of confused — how was this place ever a thing? I guess it speaks to the great leaps and bounds Shanghai restaurants have made since 1997? Was all food in the 90s so bad? There's way more interesting legacy Shanghainese food out there. Like this place. Or if you're stranded for tourist-friendly options, maybe try Jianguo 328, the old Jesse restaurant or even Xindalu at Hyatt on the Bund? I mean, there are a million other options. Or a million minus one. The restaurant may come back next year in a new location, the guy on the phone told me this morning when I called to confirm the closing, but we all know how those type of plans work out. Anyway, 23 years is a long time. Zai jian, 1221!