Set back off the road amongst a few hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurants and gambling houses, The Pho Laboratory offers a simple two-room dining space, clean décor, and a single flat-screen in the back constantly broadcasting ESPN (the owner is a big US college football fan). They also boast "the best pho in town" and it's hard to argue. It's delicious. Two varieties: chicken and beef. 60rmb for a large; 50rmb for a small. The Banh Mi is worth a shot too.