Probably the most famous shop from Wei "The Cursing Noodle King" Yi, this spot gets packed with grandfathers and middle-aged men with walnut bracelets and hip kids in their 20s crowding around small shared tables, slurping down bowls of yangchun mian, a very Shanghainese soup noodle made with a soy-spiked broth and a lashing of pork fat. People only get let in in small batches. The pace is fast, the service is curt, and the noodles are cooked until they barely reach al dente, a specialty of the house.