Cheap, clean, sort-of stylish, and extremely popular Sichuan chain. Expect to wait for a table. Food's not bad. Everyone's ordering the slices of catfish in a bath of spicy-and-numbing oil (shuizhuyu) and the bullfrog (chanzui niuwa), and washing it down (and cooling it off) with the homemade suanmeitang, a smoky and sweet sour plum drink.