It's grubby, dingy and, as if that weren't enough, its next door neighbor is one of those "massage" parlors. Still, Hong Qi Lin's got it where it counts. The food is humble, hearty Shanghai home style faves like pork braised in pickled tofu, black pepper steak with chicken leg mushrooms, and orange peel fried shrimp. They also claim to make the biggest shi zi tou, or lion's head meatballs in the city. Service is friendly and more than willing to offer suggestions. No one speaks a word of English, though, so brush up on your Chinese or bring someone who can be an interpreter.