Get past the uninspiring decor of this place and you'll find some excellent Shanghainese cuisine, especially during hairy crab season. It looks like a typical state-owned hotel canteen -- lots of beige and bright lights with generic plinky music in the background -- but the crabs are fresh (they crawl around in nets for all to see under the stairs) and come not only in the shell but in a range of traditional Shanghai dishes, such as dou hua (classic crab meat and tofu), and Chinese yam topped with crab.