Liu Tang Men is a smart Sichuan noodle joint by an aging rocker from Chengdu, with one of Shanghai's finest bowls of dan dan mian. Where other Sichuan places overwhelm with spice, Liu Tang Men understands nuance and the mix of the flavors that are the real heart of the province's food. All of the various noodles are worth trying, as is the 419rmb Tibetan stonepot chicken soup, which has to be ordered two days in advance.