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Tentekomai (Julu Lu)

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    • ADDRESS:
      242 Ruijin Lu,
      near Julu Lu
      (Entrance on Julu Lu)
      瑞金路242号, 近巨鹿路
    • PHONE:
      5228 0650
    • WECHAT:
      -
    • AREA:
      Huangpu Xuhui
    • METRO:
      10 mins walk from West Nanjing Rd
    • HOURS:
      Daily, 5.30-11.30pm
    • CARDS:
      Local cards accepted
    • PRICE:
      $$$$$
    • WEB:
      -
    • SmartShanghai.com Editor's Description
      Wildly popular and eminently affordable, this izakaya does a brisk business in crispy gyoza, yakitori, and other snacks that make you want to guzzle down lots of beer, sake, and shochu. Their beef tongue comes highly recommended.
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  • Background food, in a good way!
    For Tentekomai (Julu Lu) on December 3, 2014
    Value for Money
    Suitable for ...
    The Food
    A Date
    The Drinks
    With Family
    The Service
    Business Dinner
    Atmosphere
    With Friends
    papierjaune
    Joined Sep 4, 2013
    Posted 3 Reviews
    I have been calling this place “the Japanese restaurant on Julu lu” for quite some time now. There is no English sign, the mingpian is only in mandarin, the crowd is mainly Japanese with a good share of locals and some westerners. There are about 5 large tables, usually occupied by larger groups having “proper” dinner and the bar area, where slow-motioned, heavy-smoker sake drinkers sit facing a wall of bottled booze... Izakaya style, drink first then eat something. Although a smoker myself, the cloud of smoke in this place seems to be as much a decoration as the sake bottles on the shelves or the ever-present waving cat toy.

    The fairest, and very personal, description I have of Tentekomai is one of an establishment with background food/ambience. Very much like listening to Brian Eno's airport music while driving, cooking or eating an apple: one is not really conscious of the music but has a rather retrospective impression of it, if at all. In the case of a bar/restaurant it could mean a major drawback if, for some reason, one is oblivious to the food but I see it as a different and interesting food experience. The food is unpretentious, moderately seasoned. It isn't insipid, definitely well-balanced - the same way a fresh steamed broccoli with soya sauce can be.

    We ordered the spinach salad which, aside from the out-of-season cherry tomatoes (tasted like plastic), was plain and simple yet somehow it blows your mind (in retrospect). The beef tongue and the grilled mackerel were both fresh and tasty but left me indifferent - the little mountain of shredded radish bl(a)nded well with the fish, no overpowering intended, no sharp notes but... well, there is something to both these dishes that is boring, in a familiar kind of way. Warm sake was de rigueur in a cold winter evening, discreet and comforting.

    Nothing derailed from the unexpected consistency of simple, straight-forward and un-flashy honest food. My overall experience is very positive but the food doesn't stand on the podium; there is something else that makes this place a worthy regular venue. The general ambience, the friendly all-smiles fuwuyuan, the slow-paced effect of combining food and drinks and definitely the 120rmb per head (including sake) that we paid!!

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