The final piece in the three-piece restaurant puzzle at Shanghai EDITION, Jason Atherton's brain child HIYA might look a bit Japanese but it's more like "inspired by" Japanese izakayas. "Inspired" because, despite having a very Japanese kitchen (headed up by Christopher Pitts), with the bincho-tan charcoal grill and special tempura fryers, it's not a brushed-plaster, white-walled and blond wood room, though it does have a light touch to it all, and fairly dramatic views of the river. The Japanese touches come in the tableware, much of which comes from Japan, in things like a Highball list, and of course, in the main menu, which is split into small sections titled Smaller (plates), Temaco (a made-up word, a deep-fried seaweed taco filled with sushi), Tempura, Hibachi Grill, and Inspired by the Classics. Is this Japanese food? Not really. There’s nothing subtle or reserved about it. But there's nothing else like it in Shanghai and it's worth a visit for any occasion that calls for eating in a hotel.