“Old Jesse” (a direct transliteration of Lao Jishi) is the original, shabby-but-clean cornerstone of Shanghainese cooking that went on to spawn the whole “New Jesse” (Xin Jishi) empire. This first location is still the best, the one worth crossing town for: hongshao rou with real depth, braised pork shoulder, river shrimp dipped in delicate aged vinegar, a scallion-blanketed fish head, and seasonal hairy crab dishes when winter hits. Seats are tight, reservations are essential, and service can be brusque, but if you’ve only got time for one Shanghainese meal in the city, it’s hard to do better than Jesse.