*** You ever been to that bar right next to the Bell Tower that has a bunch of pool tables and no windows? I've been in a few times over the years but I didn't even know it had a name until last night. Just assumed it was intentionally left nameless, similar to how it has no sign, no advertisement, no website, etc. But, nope, it's called Ball House.

Area:

Ball House is located at #40 Zhonglouwan Hutong. That's the alley that snakes between the Drum and Bell Towers, flanking that plaza that always seems to be in a process of demolition. If you start at the Drum Tower, walk north on the right side of the plaza. Ball House is directly to the east of the Bell Tower. The entrance looks like this:

What is it:

Ball House is a pool bar. It's a spacious, split-level room with three pool tables and four foosball tables scattered around, and a bunch of ratty old couches that look like they were saved from destruction by Zhou Enlai during one of Mao's late archaeological purges. "Lived in" is how you'd describe Ball House. It was opened almost 10 years ago by a native Beijinger called Wang who just wanted a place to play pool with his friends. It caught on as a hip local within the first year and has maintained a steady clientele of Gulou cool-hunter types — artists, musicians, filmmakers — as well as simple city dwellers looking for cheap beer and a few games of pool (30rmb per hour).

Why it’s good:

It's a simple, winning formula. In Gulou bar years, a decade is practically unheard of. Especially for bars located immediately next to Gulou itself. Ball House has made its (extremely low-profile) reputation by sticking to one thing and doing it well. No flash, no promo. Just a dark, semi-smokey room with pool tables. The name comes from Cantonese slang for playing pool ("打波" — Ball House's Chinese name is 波楼). Wang still shows up every night to shoot a rack and shoot the shit. It's that kind of joint.

Atmosphere:

Ball House has that whole "converted hutong courtyard house" thing going on. Sloping roof, exposed beam staircases and railings, bare stone walls in most places. The lighting's dim but not dark, coming mostly from vintage-looking lamps strewn about. Besides a wall of gig posters and a Modernist-looking painting of serially repeated hanzi behind the bar, there's not much decoration. The music is minimal techno and chill house curated by an old friend of Wang's, DJ Huang Weiwei (Wang met him on the street when Weiwei was 14 years old). Ball House opens every day around 2pm or so and closes whenever the last person leaves (usually around 2-3am). They have a steady stream of patrons every night of the week, with a bit more of a crush on weekends. Still, this isn't a place to rage. It's quiet. The audience is well-heeled but not snooty. Beyond the background techno — played at a mercifully low volume — sounds come from small group conversations flitting around the high ceilings, and of course the crack of pool balls and crazy-looking, industrial DIY foosball situations.

Prices:

Very reasonable, for the area. Cheapest option is a bottle of Tsingtao or Tiger for 15rmb. They have an extensive list of liqueurs ranging from 30-40rmb, a standard list of cocktails averaging out at 40rmb, and a wide selection of juice and tea for 30/40rmb. Here are some gratuitous shots of their hand-written menu:

Ordering Recommendations:

I don't know, it's pretty straightforward. Walk in, order a beer, reserve a pool table. That's pretty much how it works. Wang recommends their Long Island Iced Tea (45rmb) but that's really not my steez so I have no word on it. Beer and pool, I'd say. That's my recommendation. *** Ball House is located at 40 Zhonglouwan Hutong, directly east of the Bell Tower. Find more info in the listing.