Yang Changgen and his wife Li Zhifang live on third floor of the Ramous Apartments (built 1928) in Hongkou. Their 20 square meter apartment shares a kitchen with their neighbors, and hallways are cluttered with bicycles, suitcases and boxes.

On Work
“I wake up at 5:30 in the morning, pick up the table and stools, put them in the trolley and walk to Luxun Park, where I stay until about five in the afternoon, drawing calligraphy on my fans and selling them.



On Marriage
“I was born here in Hongkou in 1947 and lived here until my company sent me to Chongqing. There, I worked as a heavy equipment driver for a factory. Li’s sister worked in the same plant. One day she came to me and asked, ‘Are you single?’ I said yes. ‘Huh, I have a younger sister, let me introduce you two.” So I went over to their house for a visit. I asked Li out for the first time on a Sunday; it was the only day we both had off.

On Coming Back
“We moved back to Shanghai about twenty years ago. Since everything is more expensive here, we couldn't survive only on my retirement plan, so I started to make fans. On one side, I paint birds, flowers, and natural landscapes in watercolor while the paper is stretched; I assemble it and then take it to the park to draw calligraphy with ink on the backside. It’s all handmade and painted by me.


On The Apartment
“We have only been living in this apartment for two weeks. We had to move around a bit in recent years since one of our homes was demolished and the following one was not so comfortable. We asked a construction worker if he knew about a place to rent and he happened to be working in this building. They just did some renovations here, adding modern things. Our room is smaller than the others, but it’s fine for us. We can even receive friends here.



On Sharing
“Our neighbor’s home is much bigger: she integrated two rooms to live with her daughter. We have high ceilings, so she can easily fit her tall lacquer furniture. We all share the kitchen, which is very spacious and the sink is near to the cooking area, so that makes my wife’s life easier.


On Staying
“I could try to sell fans in other parks in Shanghai, but I think I would get pushed away because the security guards don’t know me. Everyone knows us here: we have many friends. Besides, I was also born here and grew up here. I came back following the Chinese tradition of going back to your roots. You know, Hongkou is still very similar to what it was during my childhood. Of course, there are more cars, people and high-rise buildings, but the feeling remains the same.”
