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Last updated: 2015-11-09

R.I.P. Dongtai Lu Market

Shanghai says goodbye to another slab of raw culture in the city center. You have a few days left to check it out before it's gone forever.


Photographs by Cecilia Chan, Words by Ian Louisell

If you haven't been to the Dongtai Lu Antiques Market yet, you've got maybe five days to go, possibly a few more. Hard to say. It's another doomed section of raw Shanghai: alleys, dudes playing cards and smoking in the street, global culture wires getting crossed, haggling with shopkeepers. It's been open since the late 1980's, and was a cricket market before then. There are no Dairy Queens here. Just basic stalls slinging warrior statues, swords, and Mao figurines, and a lot of elderly folks hanging out. Many of the "antiques" are not. But still, it's a cool place to browse, and one of the more low-key tourist attractions/markets left in Shanghai. Just after Chinese New Year 2015, this market will disappear, with the property planned for redevelopment and bulldozers set to strike in early March. It feels a bit like when the much-loved Fuxing Lu electronics market closed in 2013, right around the time when the posh, bakery-scented IAPM mall opened around the corner. The Dongtai market sits in similarly prime real estate, a quick walk from Xintiandi, clusters of luxury apartment buildings with impossibly tall gates, and art-mall K11. Check this gallery for around twenty moments from one of the market's last days.

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    1.

    "Big discounts. These are the last days before this place gets torn down." A new antique mall may go in here, but it seems unlikely many of the shopkeepers here would pay the higher rent.

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    2.

    Dongtai Lu Antique Market's entrance on Xizang Lu. Many of the shops will close when Chinese New Year begins but others will stay open during the holiday week. After that, it's hard to say how long before the bulldozers come in, but probably by early March. Some will probably try to make money until the end.

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    Most folks working here are older, and the general mood is inevitability. Some said they didn't know what their plans were, but didn't seem upset.

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    4.

    Would someone go through the hassle to make a fake old-school trunk or outdated TV? Probably not. LV bag? Perhaps. A lot of fake antiques on Dongtai Lu for sure, but also some good finds.

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    5.

    It's time for Chinese New Year.

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    6.

    A proud arrangement of the past.

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    7.

    That robe.

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    8.

    In no hurry.

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    9.

    Friend of a friend.

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    10.

    "I want to remember my time in China with a naked, demon-eyed plastic child that likely belongs to the dead" - said no one ever.

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    11.

    Allegedly, when Rolling Stones guitarist Ronnie Wood goes antique shopping in Shanghai, he only shops at one place. Shopkeep says he's been here for thirty years, and before that, this place was a cricket market.

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    12.

    "Catch up to America, surpass England!"

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    13.

    High-end audio visual equipment going for real cheap these days.

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    14.

    Guy says he'll stay open during Chinese New Year. The paint smell is strong and dude is extremely jolly.

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    15.

    Cooler than most graffiti in Shanghai, and probably just placed there by a kid years ago.

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    16.

    "So...do you like Minecraft?"

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    17.

    Houses behind the market. Probably not the safest place for kids to play, but certainly more inspiring than smart phones and KFC. Urban renewal is tricky business. This is far from the nicest old housing stock in Shanghai, but there's a lot of social capital here that can't be replaced.

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    18.

    This one is holding out for higher compensation.

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    19.

    Diversity and Understanding Part I.

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    20.

    Diversity and Understanding Part II.

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    Diversity and Understanding Part III.

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    22.

    It's still quite real just a few blocks away, on the walk to Xintiandi. Hard to say what will happen to this area in the next decade or two.

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    23.

    Dongtai Lu, we are now about to leave you, in the harmony. You've got a few more days to go. Get down there before the end of February.

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