Cotton Ding's two eponymous bar are expat neighborhood institutions. She's got a knack for turning old houses into cozy watering holes, and now she's turned her to hand to the food of her home province. She's taken the Cotton's formula for ambiance -- lanehouse, fireplace, dim lighting -- and grafted it to a slim menu of personal favorites and Hunan hits to fill a void in the Hunan With Atmosphere dining category.