Honestly, I like the Nanluo area. Now I don't mean the actual street, because unless I'm getting a fro yo, I wisely avoid that hutong Times Square like every other sensible person. But there are endless hidden bars and restaurants of wildly varied quality and zero marketing skills scattered haphazardly in it's nearby environs. A misspelled Route 66 Americana bar with syrupy cocktails? An over-designed BBQ place with Tolix chairs and an internet meme logo? A psychic in Indian clothing carefully analyzing a tarot deck with a fish tank containing two live, neon green frogs in the window? Check, check and check mate. It makes for good hunting.
For example, if you head west down Chaodou Hutong heading towards Nanluo you'll notice a stark, unadorned facade right in-between some loud clothing shops/ cafes. No signage, very small, and with a minimal concrete and wood design. It's name only becomes obvious once you see the menu inside: 五右街门, or Goemen, who is a famous 14th century Japanese Robin Hood-like ninja who was also famously boiled to death, gui jie hot pot style:
Ahhhh!!! :-O
So yes, Goeman. It makes good use of it's small space with loft Japanese style seating upstairs, a bar top and two small tables in the main room. Intimate. The menu is simple, in script Chinese and Japanese only. And like most good restaurants, the menu doesn't overwhelm you with choice. It's basically udon noodles, hot pot, cold dishes and BBQ, at very fair prices.
At the waiter's recommendation, I got the 日本冷豆腐 (Japanese style cold tofu - 10rmb), which was a pleasing, but very standard, interpretation. Generous amount of those lovely, smoky, salty bonito flakes and thinly sliced green onion cascading over top. The 芥末章鱼(wasabi octopus – 18rmb) was very fresh and palate cleansing.
Onto the main event. All the udon noodles and hot pot dishes have three possible flavor profiles represented by three colors: 白 (white), 黑 (black) and 赤 (red). White, we were told, is cream flavored, so we chose 白面i”white” udon noodles - 33rmb) hoping for some fucking carbonarrrrraaaaa. And goddamn were we not disappointed.
Look at this. Look deep into it's soul. Manically delicious, thick noodles in a buttery, gooey, sensual, bacon-y cream blanket. You deserve this, you wonderful fat slut.
The barbecue arrived just as we slurped down the last, glistening noodle. 秋刀鱼 (grilled pacific saury – 18rmb) and 猪颈肉 (grilled pork neck - 8rmb) are two of the handful of grilled items available. Let me say, for this price the quality is truly phenomenal. The saury was fresh, perfectly grilled and it's crispy, fatty skin was gorgeous with a squeeze of lemon. Make sure to specify if you want the fish eviscerated since the organs are bitter and not to everyone's taste. The pork neck was simple and satisfying with a small amount of what seemed to be freshly grated radish and wasabi on the side of the plate. Wash it down with your second or third Ashai draft (15rmb).
Lastly, the hot pot. We skipped “black” flavor hot pot, which we were told was just a simple broth with soy sauce, and opted for the spicy red (43rmb). Homemade meatballs, several kinds of mushrooms, Garlic leeks, kimchi, sesame and whole chilis bobbing up and down in a fiery, although somewhat sweet, broth. Richly spicy and winter friendly.
Verdict: Yes please. Don't mind if I do, sir. Tipping my hat to your lovely food, you long dead, possibly fictional ninja. I'm returning like tomorrow. Go go go go go Goemon! <3<3<3
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Goemon – Chaodou hutong #73, which is the first hutong to the right after entering Nanluo on the Di'anmen main entrance.