*** [Ed's Note: Yisilan has a very strict 'no photography' policy at their restaurant. We had to sneak 'em with an iPhone, and thus, the photo quality ain't so hot. Sorry about that.] * Xinjiang food in Beijing is not hard to find. I don't know a block in this city that doesn't have someone selling chuar and dapanji, and everyone, locals and foreigners alike, has their neighborhood favorite. Yisilan is your new favorite, and although it's probably not in your neighborhood -- near the chaotic and utterly bewildering Zoo Market next to the Xinjiang Municipal Government Offices -- never mind. It's worth the trip. Yisilan is Xinjiang's "Provincial Government Restaurant", which means all the chefs are flown in, a lot of the ingredients are imported, and the restaurant itself is under government mandate and scrutiny to supply the classic authentic flavors of their home province. This is serious. This is true Xinjiang food. The best in town. To a perennially packed restaurant, servers, all from Xinjiang, all dressed in traditional garments, ferry provincial classics to and from tables of governmental dignitaries and representatives, Beijing locals, and migrants from Xinjiang. This place is no secret and it's common knowledge that some of the most famous dishes sell out early so they know to come early. One of the biggest differences that separates Yishilan from the rest is the quality of the lamb. As described in one of my earlier write-ups, many of the restaurants around Beijing, due to issues of cost, try to pass mutton off as lamb. They are not the same. Most of the local Xinjiang places tend to use mutton, which is more mature. As the sheep matures, it develops a noticeably more gamey flavor and tougher texture. My Xinjiang friend says that the lamb served in Yisilan is actually from Xinjiang -- a somewhat dubious claim, but either way, you can't argue with the quality and freshness of the dishes. Chuar at Yisilan takes on a bit more of a prehistoric edge than most. The skewers are not skinny bamboo sticks, but are made from the smaller branches of date trees in Xinjiang. The idea, similar to that in American BBQ, is that as the wood burns it gives off smoke and steam which will impart a sweet and fruity flavor. the skewer's rudimentary arrow shape come from hand sharpening by the chefs in the kitchen. Despite the monstrous chunks of lamb, the meat is grilled to perfection, both tender and seasoned well, not overwhelmed by the addition of too much cumin, chili, and salt, allowing the sweetness of the lamb to truly shine through. The pieces of fat, as well, are in the correct proportion offering a nice counterpoint of texture and richness. Even from this simple dish, it is evident that the chefs have tremendous respect for their ingredients as well as place a high importance on attention to detail. In addition to quality staple dishes, Yisilan offers a wide range of rare authentic dishes that I have yet to find in great frequency outside of these government run restaurants. My favorite dish by far is the kaobaozi (烤包子) pictured above. If for no other reason, I encourage you to come to Yisalan if not only to try this specialty. Akin to a meat pie, these golden brown pocket's thin crisp shell give way to flavorful chunks of lamb, sweet onion, and the occasional rich small piece of lamb fat. The ratio of shell to filling is superb, leaving no want of delicious filling, but also providing the satisfying crunch and structural integrity needed to deliver the robust flavor. This is the reason why I venture across town. And this is the reason you should make the trip as well. The kaobaozi sell out almost every single day and are one of the reasons for the long queues at the early portions of the night. Another dish to look for is tangfan (羊肉汤饭). It's a simple broth noodle dish, but when it's done right it can be sublime. Unlike many other noodle dishes, the preferred texture is closer to chewy rather than al dente. The secret is the delicate balance between the robust broth and the texture of the noodles. Each occasional bite of noodle offers comfort, being both soft and forgiving. The broth too, albeit with a bit of a peppery kick, has a sense of warmth and comfort that seems to warm the body from the inside out on a cold day. Each portion is made to order. The dish takes between 40 and 50 minutes to make, but is well worth the wait. The other all-important offering at Yisilan is the Xinjiang (Sinkiang) Black Beer. Although it makes little sense, the Xinjiang beer is one of the best domestic beers I have tasted. Made with Loulan hops, the beer is more full bodied than sickly sweet. The malt, unlike in the majority of domestically produced black beers, is present but is not overwhelming. When I decided to write this article I knew I would catch a decent amount of flak from many people who have their own favorite Xinjiang places and favorite dishes. Yisilan is a different type of experience, but still offers their own authentic take on all of the classics. For instance, their dapanji is different than most other restaurants. It is less intense focusing more on the light and fresh noodles than a very heavy broth. The braised lamb on naan is also better than most. The quality of the naan bread is high enough that even doused in sauce, it does not get soggy before it gets to your table. Due to the high quality of the lamb, I also enjoy their dry roasted preparation of lamb ribs and leg of lamb. Yisilan excels in its attention to detail. The chefs take great pride and care in the preparation and quality of the food served. During my countless trips here, I cannot remember a single time I had any gristle or any structural problem with a dish. The drawbacks: the location, wait, and limited supply of some of some dishes. That and they really tend to enforce their rules regarding no photography. That being said the area is also studded with a variety of places to get high quality specialty foods, alcohols, and goods straight from Xinjiang. If you do have time before dinner, I suggest perusing some of the shops in the area. There are some other great eats and small venders selling naan and other baked goods to take home. Enjoy! The address information for Yisilan is right here. Their open daily, 7-9am, 11am-10:30pm. Note: it's always a wait for a table. Get there early for dinner.