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Last updated: 2015-11-09

First Bites:
Santos

A buzz through the menu of new Portuguese restaurant Santos out at The Place (ish). Skewers of meat and full chickens on the docket...

Santos

is the Portuguese newcomer trying to elbow its way with everyone else into World City. World City -- that's the one just north of The Place AKA The Thing with The Giant TV in the Sky and Spark Nightclub. Head for that T.G.I. Fridays, wander around lost for a bit, and you should stumble upon it. "Santos Portuguese Grill & Bar" -- the décor is comfortable without being too homely, althought it's a little sparse. There's some interesting wooden lattice work on the walls and ceilings, funky light fixtures, and a slew of comfortable chairs. In the center of the restaurant is an open kitchen, brand new, clean and shiny, with lots of stainless steel and hope for the future. It's comfortable enough. The selection at Santos isn't what you'd expect right off the bat from a Portuguese restaurant. Instead of leaning towards the seafood that is prevalent on most Portuguese menus around the world, Santos is serving lots of red, red meat and poultry. High-quality, fresh ingredients are apparent. They're only using imported Australian beef, which is nice. Everything that can be made in-house is made in-house -- the beef for the burgers (yes, burgers) are ground to order and all of the breads on the menu are made on site (more on that later). Digging deeper into the menu, you're looking at good selection of Churrasco Portugues (read: kebabs), Peri-Peri chicken, Pao Portugues (fresh homemade flat bread), and grilled steaks on lava rocks. Lighter fare includes various wraps, pitas, and burgers. Each main comes with your choice of side from a fairly robust list, including everything from chili cheese fries to paella rice to egg-fried rice. The prices are a bit higher than what you pay around town -- kebabs from 98rmb, burgers start at 75rmb -- but the quality and portion size make up for it somewhat. The Steak Kebab (120rmb) was huge; the beef was tender and seasoned well. The edges had a very nice char and the beef itself possessed a nice mineral flavor that is characteristic of non-Chinese imported, higher quality beef. The grilled red peppers added a nice sweetness to the dish; and the homemade flat bread was soft and provided a nice vehicle for all of the beefy goodness. The Peri-Peri Chicken (140rmb for a whole chicken, the one pictured here is a half for 95rmb) had a nice bold flavor. We ordered mild and the heat was not overpowering. The full range of flavors were able to shine through. The chicken was very well-cooked, tender, juicy, and fell apart easily. Some of the breasts could have used a little less time in the oven, but it was not anything the accompanying tzatziki-like sauce couldn't salvage. The Brito (49rmb), with cheese, olives, and caramelized onions, was fantastic, with a nice crisp underside and tender crumb. The quality and attention to detail really shown through here. Bread isn't easy and it is even harder in Beijing. The most surprising was that despite the amount of olive oil, it didn't seem greasy at all. All in, the food was good. Our initial takeaway: The prices are a bit steep, but if you are really craving some Portuguese BBQ that tilts towards high-end, it's worth a shot. Stopping by during the day might be a bit more cost effective -- they just started a 49rmb lunch special, served daily from 11:30am to 2:30pm. Six options spanning Chicken Goujons, Battered Cod, and Pizza Rustica. Santos is still in their soft opening period, so service is a bit spotty, and it's still under the radar. Both times we dined there we pretty much had the place to ourselves. Finding it: Santos is on the far east side of the World City building facing east toward the Central Park and Jintongxi. World City is north of The Place. Address and details right here.

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