That advancing enclave of Xingfucun restaurants and bars welcomed another addition to their number exactly one week ago today with the opening of The Pho Laboratory, a small, 10-table restaurant that deals in just three Vietnamese classics: Phở, Banh Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches), and Vermicelli Rolls. Set back off the road amongst a few hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurants and gambling houses, The Pho Laboratory offers a simple two-room dining space, clean décor, and a single flat-screen in the back constantly broadcasting ESPN (the owner is a big US college football fan, as evidenced by the Notre Dame pride hanging on the venue walls). ***

The Phở

The Phở Bộ (Beef pho -- 60rmb for a large, 50rmb for a small) has one of the richest, beefiest, most complex broths I have had in Beijing. The broth is simmered for at least 12 hours using only imported meat from the US and Australia, giving it an almost roasted, prime-rib like level of beefiness. If offers both strong and sweet notes indicative of high quality beef -- none of the “off” or “gamey” flavors associated with the majority of local beef. The soup is very complex with rich and earthy qualities. It seems to wrap around the tongue and mouth leaving a distinct, but not overwhelming, savory, succulent flavor. The long simmering time also imparts a nice lip-smacking goodness given off by this dark, rich broth. Lurking inside are savory, tender chunks of flank, tripe and tendon along with beef meatballs with the crème de la crème on the top: huge slices of beautiful, rare, juicy sirloin. Simply put, I was blown away. Next up was the Phở Gã (Chicken pho -- 55rmb for a large, 45rmb for a small). Although not simmered for as long as its beef counterpart, the chicken pho is still simmered for at least 10 hours, lending it a distinct, strong, intense chicken flavor. Immediately, the color and smell of the broth exude quality and a strict adherence to the Lab's high standards. The broth took me back to my childhood and the day-long chicken soup I used to love. The rich, sweet, bright, aromatic broth shines through, warming but not overwhelming. Both the beef and chicken incarnations come with soft, delicate rice noodles and the usual accompaniment of chilies, cilantro, bean sprouts, and lime to customize the pho to your unique tastes.

Char Siu Banh Mi

The Char Siu Banh Mi (Roasted pork sandwich -- 40rmb) is extremely well-balanced between pork and vegetables, with the bread being the hands down, stand-out all-star. The bread is baked fresh on the premise daily with a nice crust giving way to a soft and airy middle. The bread has always been the make or break point for Banh Mi in my eyes. Accompanying the roast pork are slices of Chả lụa, a Vietnamese version of ham. The Chả lụa is a good foil for the savory roast pork, offering a fresher, cooling, more subtle and sweet counterpoint. The vegetables are also well portioned providing balance while still letting the bread and pork take center stage.

Chả lụa

Lastly, the Chả lụa pork and shrimp roll (35rmb). The spring roll is fresh and light. The shrimp is sweet and delicate playing well with the Chả lụa pork, neither of which overpower the other. The addition of Thai basil gives a strong floral note, enhancing its ability to complement the Phở . The sauce is a play on the traditionally paired hoisin based sauce with chili, peanut butter and sugar. Their version also includes fish sauce, garlic, and a “secret ingredient”. The sauce is addictive. *** Along with their mantra for high quality food, The Pho Laboratory goes to great lengths to import a lot of items, including the Chả lụa used in the Banh Mi and vermicelli rolls from Vietnam. The restaurant also imports three kinds of Vietnamese beer (20rmb each) -- Saigon (fresh, with a nice kick), 333 (a little more bitter of a lager), and Ha Noi beer (typical lager). Last, but not least, for the Siracha maniacs, there's also imported bottles of the stuff from LA on every table. Here's a few extras to tag on to you meal... ...a classic Vietnamese coffee, if you're looking to never sleep again (25rmb)... ... the sugar-charged Creme Brulee (20rmb)... ...and the bottomless Kool-Aid (20rmb)! Yes, that's right. Bottomless Kool-Aid. Served in the cups your mum used for your 9th birthday party. It's the simple things in life... *** Further reading: a very friggin' positive review of the place posted earlier today at Lumdimsum. The Pho Laboratory is at 12 Xinzhong Lu, near Chunxiu Lu. It's right across the street from The Great Leap Brewery in a row of small restaurants. Look for this sign in the window. They are open from 12:00pm – 10:30pm on weeknights and until 11:30pm on weekends. Here's what it looks like from across the street.