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Last updated: 2015-11-09

New Bites: Kenny's Burgers

New in Nali Patio. Chef-about-town Kenny opens up a burger shack. With fine wines, VOSS water, and meat imported in from Tasmania...

Newest newcomer to the Nali Patio Mediterranean restaurants hub is a burger and blaring-ass house music restaurant called Kenny's Burgers. This is a good thing. Nali Patio definitely could use some new blood. That hulking, still-shuttered Parnas space is positively radiating bad juju and just in general, the complex could use some sprucing up. Nali Patio: feels like working on the set of a porn shoot in Boca Raton. Getting paid next to nothing. Opened on the ground floor of Nali Patio across the courtyard from Moka Bros, I tried out Kenny's Burgers a week ago last Monday, on the first day they opened. The eponymous "Kenny" was already doing some kind of TV interview or something. Since then, they've been blowing up on the WeChat moments with hotel PR-type people which means... I dunno, that might mean something. Kenny is Chef Kenny of My Humble House, a well-reviewed Asian fine dining restaurant. Kenny's Burgers is his foray into boutique gourment-style burgers, well-chosen wines, and pristine bottled water from Norway. We went back yesterday to try out three more from the burger menu. The restaurant is simple and minimal, and a basic kind of chic. It's like a nondescript cafe-plus-afternoon wine spot kind of thing. Big bay windows open on to the courtyard, the one-room dining area is table and booth seating, and an open kitchen is at the back. It's all tied together by super loud house music, pumping from club speakers. Dude. Dude... The menu as it stands now revolves around burgers -- 7 or 8 variations thereof. Meat is imported from Tasmania and is lovingly reared on nothing but grass and hugs until making its appearance on your lunch plate. Aside from the burgers, there's a bunch of fancy deserts and this, a Caesar Salad to share. "BIG Caesar Salad" - 58rmb Not bad. Not stupendous, but not bad. It's a pretty busy variation on a Caesar Salad, with raisins, grana padao cheese, and anchovies thrown in there. So burgers. These are basically all of them: Starting with a "Classic Hamburger"... "Classic Hamburger" - 58rmb This is the entry level, least involved thing on the menu. Comes out on a wood platter, with fries in a basket, appealing to the New York banker ordering room service in me. It's smaller than you're expecting. But pretty tasty. Reminded me of an In and Out Burger. Main ingredients that hit are the mayo and hamburger relish, but overall it was a pretty nice balance. It's decent. It's okay. From there, it gets going. This is the "Wutong Burger" "Wutong Burger" - 78rmb ...which is kimchi, tempura, sweet potato, Tasmanian beef, tomato sauce, burger relish, chilli, lettuce. Lots of stuff going on. But... it just tasted like a burger with some kimchi on it. It's good and all. It's fine. But I was feeling the burn on the price tag with this one. Feels small, despite the amount of action going on with the description. Here's an "Atocha Burger": "Atocha Burger" - 68rmb Yeah, it looks kinda sad, but it was the best one we'd tried from Kenny's. Despite the fanfare with ingredients, they're doing great sauces at this place. The combination was like a sweet jam-like sauce on this one and really went well with the juiciness of the patty. Atocha Burger -- thumbs up on this one. Last one. "Chef Kenny's Burger": "Chef Kenny's Burger" - 130rmb This is the payday burger. 130 renminbeeeees. Named it after himself. Chef Kenny, this is what he eats, presumably, while blasting house music is his minimal, beautifully appointed art deco pad somewhere. It's an imported tenderloin steak in a bun, some horse radish and... super disappointing. 130rmb, what's that, like 20 bucks? 20 bucks guy, come on. Come on now. EFF that. The Take-Away: If you're a big beefy, Hulk Hogan-fearing American bro that likes grinding out Smashmouth burgers and slamming beers, watching Roadhouse like a champ, Kenny's Burgers might not be for you. It's fashion-fashion. If you're open minded to a chef experimenting around with basically good ingredients, it's not bad. Gourmet fast food is not a new concept, for sure, but for my part, I'm up for that sometimes. I don't begrudge that. And I'd definitely go back for that Atocha Burger. It's not going to put a brick in your stomach, but it's a nice treat and good for something different. *** Kenny's Burgers is on the first floor of Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang district.

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