I've often found that private kitchens, those secretive restaurants that operate on the fringes of legality, appeal more to sense of pride than our sense of taste. Who among us doesn't like to gloat that we're in on something with only a handful of others? And besides, if the guy cooking the food were really that talented, wouldn't they be in the big leagues, running the kitchen in a real restaurant somewhere? Well, permit me, if you will, to gloat. I've been hipped to something hidden and secretive, and it's pretty good. I humbly submit Kitchen 71. This cozy, friendly little eatery resides deep in a lane house community off of Nanjing Xi Lu and is run by two ladies with some surprisingly good restaurant chops. They understand ambiance. The place is tastefully furnished with simple wooden chairs and tables. Flower arrangements make the place hospitable and warm. And they play chilled out bossa nova and Chinese jazz on the stereo. It's got "impress your date" all over it. They're not cooking anything fancy. Don't expect mind-blowing flavor combinations or elaborate presentations. Just think of this as the kind of stuff your friend who's a good cook would serve if they invited you over for a dinner party. For only a two-person operation they offer a staggering amount of options — 55 to be exact, an impressive repertoire. The variety is surprising too. Usually, you expect a place like this to focus on home-style Shanghai fare. They offer it, of course, and what I've tried is great, like this duck leg. It's a slight departure from what you'll see at the likes of Chun or Hai Jin Zi. Instead of a thick, black, treacly sauce this one gets a subtler soy-based glaze. What I'm assuming is a long, slow braise makes the meat fall-off-the-bone tender. It's pretty damn good. ...As is this other local staple. Tang cu paigu, or sweet and sour spare pork ribs. Every Shanghainese restaurant worth its salt is going to serve this. There is little to improve on with the recipe, and from what I could taste, these guys recognize that. They also do this... Cong you ban mian, a classic Shanghai dish of noodles tossed with sweet spring onions caramelized to a crisp. Purists may carp that Kitchen 71 skimps with the oil. They may be right. To tell you the truth, I'm still partial to the way they do this dish here. Nevertheless, it's a solid job, and they get high marks for presentation. This kind of stuff comprises only a fraction of the menu, though. They branch out quite bit with flavors of Southeast Asia. On one of my visits the sweet fragrance of Thai-style curry hung in the air like designer perfume. They also do dishes like Singaporean style chili crab. I can't comment on either; you'll have to wait until my next visit or try it out yourself. Perhaps even more surprising, however, is that they venture Westward, and on many counts pull it off quite well. They tend to keep it simple, but hey, there is nothing wrong with "simple." It works perfectly fine for this salad of al dente green beans with crushed almonds and fragrant apricot kernels. Likewise, fresh asparagus seldom needs much more than some butter, salt and pepper. Yes, this stuff is pretty hard to screw up. But who cares? I'm just concerned with the end result. Nevertheless, they slip up on occasion, but from what I've seen it's been forgivable mistakes, like being too shy with the seasoning. That's really all that's wrong with this clam "chowder" (their words). If you're from Massachusetts, 71's version of it might raise an eyebrow. But devoid of context, all this dish of clams with a mirepoix in a light cream sauce really needs is some extra salt, maybe a few cloves of garlic. It's a fair effort. This, on the other hand, is downright impressive... ...Just a pair of chicken legs, their skin roasted to a golden brown crisp. It crackles and snaps audibly under pressure from your fork, revealing perfectly tender flesh. They come to the table in a ring of roasted tomatoes and sweet, pungent cloves of roasted garlic. *** Getting a table at Kitchen 71 is a little more complicated than at your typical restaurant. You have to book through WeChat (Name:七号厨房, ID: pzn1957). I get the sense that these guys don't want to draw too much attention to themselves, so I'll leave it up to you to ask them for an address. Don't worry, it's not too hard to find. Once you've settled on a date and time, you have to pick out what you eat at least two days in advance. There is good reason for this. It's a small operation, and they fit out too many lane houses in Shanghai with walk-in coolers. They've got no room for inventory. So they buy the ingredients for your meal the day of your reservation. Since they already know what you're eating and when you're coming, they start cooking it in advance. This means that dinner usually starts coming to your table within minutes of your arrival. Knowing this, please keep one important thing in mind: if you become a no-show on these guys, you are a dick of the highest order. Also, fair warning: You need a working knowledge of Chinese. These guys speak and read little to no English from what I could tell. If you're interested in ordering any of the above, here they are in Chinese: Green Beans: 3. 刀豆杏仁奶酪色拉 Duck Leg: 7. 熏酱(鸭腿) Clam Chowder: 15. 蛤蜊巧达汤 Roast Chicken Legs: 18. 迷迭想烤鸡腿 Sweet and Sour Spare Ribs: 31. 经典糖醋排骨 Asparagus: 36. 黄油焗芦笋 Cong You Ban Mian: 44. 葱油拌面 Each item is numbered, which might make it easier to order. Bear in mind, however, that the menu changes regularly, which means the numbers might too. Prices aren't mentioned on the menu, but on my two visits the bill came out to 250 to 350rmb for two.