There’s a lot of quote-unquote “tacos” available out there in Beijing -- a lot of almost-tacos, sort of-tacos, not quite-tacos. A lot of tacos we eat and, with heavy hearts, we accept. It’s like that relationship you stay in until something better (hopefully) comes along... ouch. Desperate for the tortilla-enveloped meats that pique our taste buds with that ‘je ne sais quoi’ or lard-elicious allure, we try every incarnation of Mexican that springs up in Beijing, but something is always not quite right. Something is always never quite right. Then one day, a man came. His coming was prophesized... or at least foreseeable right? One day a man came with a taco filled with beef lengua (tongue). He showed up -- materialized -- in a Dashilar popup cafe in 2011 and sated our appetites with what we were missing all these years: a proper taco. Taiwanese-American chef Kin Hong found his calling, saw his gap in the Beijing dining scene, and promptly left China for Mexico to hone in on his craft in the taco arts (really) so he could triumphantly return once again and open The Taco Bar. QMex makes great tacos, Lucky Lopez entertains some Texan taste buds, and Saddle Bar Cantina (RIP) and Lugas have their selling points, but each is... not quite right. Right? One would think it shouldn’t take a lifetime of grazing at taquerias and taco trucks to recognize a damn-delicious taco -- or does it? When The Taco Bar opened as a speakeasy in August 2012 the word-of-mouth spread like a wildfire through the hutongs -- really big and important news it was -- that finally some mythical and righteous Mexican restaurant had opened up and *gasp* they were doing real tacos. Booking ahead was (and still is) mandatory before arriving to ensure seating and also to not piss off the neighbors with dinner-crowd noise. Call it transgressive Mexican. Now, we’re more than pleased to report, that after a brief closure for the past month, The Taco Bar is open for good and accepting all reservations. Once you’ve entered the hideout located off Fangjia Hutong, start with a bottle of Hong’s own Sangria, which he serves with liquor-steeped apples, grapes, and other inspired fruit you mix yourself into enamel-tin mugs filled to the brim with ice. Be careful not to fill up on the house chips and salsa, because they’re easy to down while waiting for the flow of oncoming grub. But it’s difficult to ignore the hot, crispy chips when along comes a tin of chunky guacamole, pork-ified black beans, aromatic, and peppered sweet corn. There’s a whole lotta dipping and double dipping non-stop, and by now you’ll need a second bottle of sangria, or ask to try the almond-tequila and lime cocktail which will condemn you sweetly and slowly into a night of unexpected events. Finally the fried fish tacos arrive, cradled in a slaw of peppery, dressed cabbage. You’re chewing and nodding in affirmation: these are the best fish tacos in Beijing. The carnitas tacos are of a stewy variety, not the roasted-then-fried in lard pork meat that make knees buckle with weakness. They’re still succulent-good, with juices from the pork and pickled onion dribbling down your wrists. There’s an al pastor, chunks of sweetly-marinated pork tossed with diced pineapple, if you’re into that sort of thing. Vegetarians can still pig-out here with the hongos, battered-then-fried mushrooms, or if it’s your lucky day, Hong gets creative and batters up slices of avocado and deep fries them. Everyone slumps in their chair feeling satiated, having hit the high spot multiple times over. For festive groups, there’s Tequila on offer which really adds dimension to the evening and drives the neighbors nuts (so, don’t drink yourself into an ass because we want this taco haven to stick around). While the tacos are the draw, Hong tips us off with some upcoming delectations -- fried chicken on Sundays in 2013! Expect more housemade pickles, coleslaw and fries loaded with more amusement for the palate. *** The Taco Bar is by reservation only. Do not go without booking first. Directions: You're finding the Andingmen Nei entrance of Fangjia Hutong. In the alleyway across from Hot Cat club and Aimo Town. When in front of Aimo Town, call the number and do not knock on any door. 132-6406-7593. Open Wed-Sun 7:30pm-Close. (Afternoons, Mondays, and Tuesdays are available by reservation. Minimum 15 people for these hours.)