China has one of the world's greatest rail networks. The days of the green and yellow sleeper trains and five-day journeys across the country are long gone, with the high-speed rail network now connecting almost every corner of the country. The trip to Suzhou has been cut to less than 30 minutes, and the trip to Hangzhou, which takes three hours to drive, is just 45 minutes on the bullet train. There's no stopping China's infrastructure expansion, and there shouldn't be: the country is newly accessible and convenient in a way it's never been before.
But how to get into the network? There are two parallel worlds at the moment, unfortunately. If you hold a Chinese ID card, a shen fen zheng, it's almost laughably easy. Go to 12306.cn or use the 高铁管家 app, buy a ticket, show up at the station and swipe your ID card to get on the train. Failing that, use the self-service e-terminals at the station.
That's not on the table for those of us without Chinese ID cards. Here's the best we have.
Go Online
Though not the only option, Ctrip, er, Trip.com as it's now known, is probably the easiest. The English site makes sense, it's easy to search destinations and times and see how long trains will take, and payment can be done with international cards, as well as local cards, Alipay and WeChat.
Tickets can also be booked through your WeChat wallet itself. Head to WeChat pay, then scroll down until you see the "Rail & Flights" option. Press this and it will link you to a website called LY.com that can be used in English and Chinese, and is basically the same process as Trip.com.
You can get your tickets delivered to wherever you want or pick them up from the ticket office at the train station using the ticket confirmation provided, but don’t leave it until the last minute. It's always best to assume there WILL be queue and you don't want to be that guy growing increasingly frantic as he inches up the line towards the counter, wondering what the hell is taking everyone else so long. One mark against Trip.com: at the time of writing, deliveries are 40rmb per ticket if you buy from the English website, ie., 80rmb for two tickets, but only 40rmb per delivery if you buy from the Chinese site. Go figure.
A couple more websites that offer the same service but only in Chinese are Qunar.com and the official Chinese national railway website. Prices are the same on each platform.