Machiya is a stage for the Tokyo-born sushi chef Ichinohe Naoki, who gained a loyal following when he was the sous chef at the Japanese restaurant in the Moller Villa on Shaanxi Lu, which was a fairly big deal. This place is courtesy of serial restaurateur Karen Chen (Jianguo 328, Vesta). It does a set menu for 700rmb (cheaper than most other such set-menu places, where prices start at 800rmb and rise precipitously), and it's very good. It ranges from cold dishes like a foamy puree of okra and soy milk and a custard-like tofu, through the poached egg with uni, the triple-flavor-bomb of raw wagyu beef wrapped around sweet raw shrimp and topped with more uni, to the various bits of Edo-style sushi.