M marks the beginning of the Bund's renaissance. In 1999, Australian restaurateur Michelle Garnaut had enough vision to turn a taciturn and stately strip of colonial buildings into a happening hub for wining and dining. Today, the restaurant is still immensely popular among locals and a destination for diners from abroad, as much for the powerhouse of a personality behind it as for its eclectic mix of European, North African and Australian flavors.