I promised and I swore and I promised a second time I’d never write about soup dumplings again. So today I went to Man Long Chu for lunch, which promises to elevate the steamed little bun into a snack worthy of an art deco environment, a manager in a suit and a waiter who pours vinegar from the bottle into your dish as if he’s decanting a vintage Lafite. And I’m going to write about it because, well, I made that cross and so it’s mine to bear.
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