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Last updated: 2015-11-09

Boutique Beat: Brand Japan

A look at Japanese threads in Shanghai. Cutting through the candy pop and cos-play fashions to find some stuff you'll actually like to wear.

Google the words “Japanese fashion” and you’ll get the impression that Tokyo is some kind of kaleidoscopic candyshop opera, dizzy with colored hair, costume make-up, and like, maids. But look past the extremes, and you’ll find lots of Japanese brands that are into cool, understated fashion that you, too, can wear. And as it would happen, some of the best of these stores are right here in Shanghai.

United Arrows Beauty & Youth

Citic Square, 2/F (inside I.T.), 1168 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Shanxi Bei Lu

United Arrows is a Japanese lifestyle and clothing company comprising many sub-labels, such as Green Label Relaxing, District, and Beauty & Youth. In recent years United Arrows has been appearing more in international retail, but if you’re not familiar with the company by name, then you might know its faces. Co-founder/creative director Hirofumi Kurino and buyer Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi get frequent love from the Internet. They're profiled by everyone from TheSartorialist to Hypebeast to Business of Fashion. And now, Shanghai is home to its very own United Arrows Beauty & Youth store. Its style avoids easy definitions, hovering somewhere between street and classic, but never quite settling for either. For a better idea, you can peep these gentlemen from the brand’s latest look-book: hereand here. For women, you can check out the recent F/W collection here. None of it is terribly cheap, but it should be within budget for people who work at global corporations and upscale international schools. Being a Japanese label, sizes run small, but large and extra large will probably accommodate most foreigners.

Beams

IAPM, LG2-235, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Shanxi Nan Lu

Beams is a bit like United Arrows: it is a massive retailer whose operations span menswear, womenswear and even records. As of last year, Shanghai is home to the original Beams line, founded in 1976. Currently the store has two locations in the city: the first being in the same West Nanjing Road I.T. that carries Beauty and Youth, the other being in the basement of the IAPM mall on South Shanxi Road. Style-wise, it isn’t worlds apart from an American brand like J. Crew. Most of the clothes don’t push boundaries, but at the same time, the designs feel young and more playful. At its heart, Beams is wearable, functional, and familiar, but has more fun with understated twists and color. For a visual idea of this, check out the Beams Plus "California Ivy"-themed look-book. Beams is affordable in its home country, but this being China, and the brand being sponsored by retailer I.T., prices will be high. Typically a dress shirt will command around 2,400rmb. Of course, costing your first-born has its advantages: Beams sees a bit of overstock, so markdowns are common. Currently the brand is in the midst of a winter clearance sale, so if you’re interested, now’s the time go check it out.

Heather Grey Wall

3/F, Yifeng Galleria, 99 Beijing Dong Lu, near Yuanmingyuan Lu

Heather Grey Wall was founded in Tokyo in 2011, the select shop of designer Kazuki Kuraishi, whose resume includes designing lines for Adidas Originals and Fragment, as well as working with A Bathing Ape and NEIGHBORHOOD. At Heather Grey Wall Tokyo, Kuraishi has worked extensively with American designer Mark McNairy as well as English cashmere brand Cash Ca, who is responsible for introducing and reinventing the latter to the Japanese market. Heather Grey Wall arrived in Shanghai last January, offering the city similar curatorial savvy. Beyond Cash Ca and Mark McNairy, there is a good mix of Japanese labels and international ones to be found here, most of which are exclusive product. Highlights include A. FOUR Kuraishi’s collaboration brand with UK artist Lucas Price; Japanese streetwear label Hombre Niño; English footwear company Tricker's; not to mention Adidas and Mastermind. You can find Heather Grey Wall on the third floor of the Yifeng Galleria on The Bund.

FASICART

182 Jinxian Lu, near Shanxi Nan Lu

FASICART is a three-story concept store on Jinxian Lu that functions as a gallery space, exhibition area and also a select shop with many labels both Japanese and Western. On the Western end, FASICART stocks shoes by California’s Thorocraft, t-shirts from France’s Maison Kitsune, and colorful rope bracelets from America’s Kiel James Patrick. On the Japanese end, you’ll find niche labels such as Whiz Limited, Phenom and Soe. Sizes are limited, but at the very least you can pick up some decent reading material, as the store stocks several nice magazines—including London-Tokyo publication Champ. You can check out FASICART’s full brand roster on their website here. Also, if your Chinese is up to par, FASICART’s website has scads of interviews with Tokyo-based designers, artists and DJs.

Amazing Menswear

735 Julu Lu, near Fumin Lu

Amazing Menswear! occupies a shoe-box-sized space building on Julu Lu formerly home to S2VS. But unlike its predecessor, Amazing! trades primarily in small and affordable Japanese labels, including Urban Research, Ships, Good Works, American Rag Cie and Rageblue. While not as famous as the other names on this list, these brands have designs and prices that rival fast fashion, but with construction that outlasts it. In so many words, Amazing Menswear! founder RuoFeng Zhao believes in the “affordability of diversity”. Zhao wants his customers to buy unique clothes without having to pay smack-in-the-mouth China mark-up prices. Amazing! has recently received its spring/summer stock, so if you're interested by all means head down and check it out. Prices are fair, but sizes are limited.

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